Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Guitars, Amps and Effects => Topic started by: hhcave on May 22, 2008, 02:05:24 PM
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I know the screw ends are supposed to face towards the pickups but what if the bridge is placed the wrong way round so the screw ends are facing away? Does is just throw off intonation in which case you can just set the intonation right for that way round and it will be the same?
Thanks
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It really doesn't matter which way round it is, the main reason for having the screws facing forward is so the strings won't touch the screw heads between the bridge and the tailpiece.
You'll see that the individual saddles have one flat side and one angled side. If it's a narrow, vintage-style ABR-1 bridge it'll probably have 3 of the flat sides facing backwards and 3 facing forwards, to give enough travel for setting the intonation. If it's a wider modern bridge the flat sides of all 6 saddles would normally face forwards.
But either way, you can turn the bridge round whichever way you want it and set the intonation accordingly. No rules!
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Don't be embarrassed - I was getting ready to ask a question about this as well.
Someone recently said on here that the screws on a T-O-M ought to be facing the pickups not the tail-piece.... BUT the Tokai Love Rock I bought last weekend is the first guitar I've ever had where this is the case - and it looks very odd to me!
All other guitars with T-O-Ms I own or have owned (including my current Epi LP, SG and my Gibson Explorer) all have the screws facing the tail-piece! The Epis were 2nd hand years ago, but the Explorer was brand new last month.
So my question was going to be - is there a right way?
In answer to yours, I have had no difficulty at all with setting intonation on all these guitars that have the bridge the "wrong" way round. In fact, I'm getting totally confused when I keep turning the screws the wrong way on the new Tokai.
If anything, I would say it's easier to adjust intonation if the screws are facing the tailpiece - when you need to undo the screw (so the saddle is moving away from the screw-driver), at least the saddle wants to move, the string angle behind the bridge is pushing it. With the screws facing the other way, I have to detune, and lift the string off to make sure it actually moves the amount it's meant to.
EDIT: Ah Philly Q beat me to it - good point about the strings touching the screws, I have experienced that, but not enough to upset me.
So glad there are no rules!! I'll turn my Tokai TOM over then - it's offending me! :lol:
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It really doesn't matter which way round it is, the main reason for having the screws facing forward is so the strings won't touch the screw heads between the bridge and the tailpiece.
You'll see that the individual saddles have one flat side and one angled side. If it's a narrow, vintage-style ABR-1 bridge it'll probably have 3 of the flat sides facing backwards and 3 facing forwards, to give enough travel for setting the intonation. If it's a wider modern bridge the flat sides of all 6 saddles would normally face forwards.
But either way, you can turn the bridge round whichever way you want it and set the intonation accordingly. No rules!
As Philly says, normal way is screws towards pickups, in order to enable you to get a steep angle from the TOM to the tailpiece, as it has an influence on tone. I always go as much as possible without touching, but some people have a different approach, even winding the strings over the top of the tailpiece to get a very low angle - I tried once and found it to sound weak.
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I always go as much as possible without touching, but some people have a different approach, even winding the strings over the top of the tailpiece to get a very low angle - I tried once and found it to sound weak.
Yeah, the ideal is supposed to be to have the strings only touching the saddles, not the screws or the back of the bridge.
I find it's sometimes impossible to avoid one or both E strings touching the bridge - unless you top-wrap as Hunter described, but I prefer more of an angle.
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Ahh okay thanks guys! I can;t see how the strings would touch the screw but at the moment my high E string is toching the bridge! I shall be taking it in for a set up (and a neck refinish - satin) in a month or so!
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You'd rather be the fool for five minutes, than the fool forever. As the saying goes.
I was conscienious (sp) about this too, but I don't see any way it could be wrong either way.
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Speaking of tune-o-matics, I just installed a L.R. Baggs piezo tune-o-matic replacement bridge (T-bridge) on my trustworthy Washburn BT-8 (my first electric, about 10 years old and I still use it for our cover band's gigs.) Did one gig with it and I'm really digging it! Running it passive with an external preamp/DI straight to the PA. Might do a separate post about it (the setup, tone etc) when I have the time.
I'm no wizard with electronics but now, having installed BKPs on my Jackson and the piezo on the Washburn with a help of a friend, I'm starting to get the hang of it enough to do small repairs etc myself. Fun stuff!
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My SG had the screws facing the tailpiece when I first got it. The low E string would always slip off of the saddle if I dug in too hard and I couldn't figure out why. I thought it was that the saddle didn't have a big enough groove, but then I realized the string was resting on the screw so that it wasn't seated properly. I turned around the bridge and it has been perfect ever since. It's even easier to get the screwdriver in there to set intonation without the string directly in the way.
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by accident my idiot brother changed my strings and when he did he took the bridge off and put it on back words, since he did this, the little saddles are fit for each string, so my 48 gauge was trying to fit in the 11 gauge position, so basically my guitar was muted cuz the sound wasnt being created or w.e, so i wouldnt do it
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but some gutiars come like that so thats alright but if it comes with the screws facing the pickups, dont switch it
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Good point, I forgot to mention that I swapped the saddles around to match. You can take off the retaining wire with a pliers or a flathead screwdriver and from there the saddles lift out. It made a huge difference in playability for me, well worth it.
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I'm no wizard with electronics but now, having installed BKPs on my Jackson and the piezo on the Washburn with a help of a friend, I'm starting to get the hang of it enough to do small repairs etc myself. Fun stuff!
ya got the bug!!!
It gets dangerous