Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Guitars, Amps and Effects => Topic started by: CJ on January 22, 2009, 12:00:38 AM
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came in one piece. not sure what year it is... i'll hopefully get some help on that on the dean forums...
but its a late 70's-early 80's Dean Z guitar, signed by the great Dimebag Darrell. unfortunately i spent all of my money buying this, so it will be a project in the working for a long time. when its done though, it will be awesome. its hard to get a good feel for the guitar, but the neck feels amazing with a really unique shape to it.
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more pics.
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Wow! Nice but a bit beaten... these cracks are only on paint or on the woods too??
Ask lord to grant you patience, that will be a long project!
Hope you get it fine!
What the idea on it?
PS: hope you don't mind, but I think this headstock suits only the ML :?
I would cut it off, even being a serious hard and dangerous work (can make a beaten guitar become firewood...)
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the cracks appear to be only in the paint. the only place that its hard to tell is on the headstock, but i'm almost positive they're just in the finish.
i'm really not sure what i'm going to do on this yet. i'm going to look to the guys at dean for some help. i believe they made this guitar in natural finish, and its possible that what you see on most of the guitar is the original finish. if so, i'm just going to sand off the rest of the black.
the other option would be a repaint, leaving the signature along, or if somehow possible, some kind of burst coming from around the signature (again leaving it alone).
and i originally didn't really like the headstock, but its grown on me. plus, after seeing the other headstocks that dean used on these in the early 80's, this one looks much nicer.
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You've got some work to do there!
That could be a very worthwhile guitar though. Personally I don't like Dean's but any genuine signed relic has got to be worth some effort. Go to it! I'll be very interested to see how that comes out.
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part of me says clean it up and it will be a ncie guitar... but part of me says it should be left it its 'extreme relic' ;) state... i reckon it can still be made very playable either way
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Leave it as it is, get it playing, and play the cr@p out of it!
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looks like it needs new frets hahahha.
badass though
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thanks for the comments guys.
Wez, yeah that's what i was having trouble deciding. with all these people making fake relics and stuff these days, this one looks pretty cool as is. but on the other hand i think it would be really cool, and fun, to completely re-do this guitar.
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only my opinion, but looks wise i'd keep it as it is. obviously it'll need work to make it properly playable, but i think it looks fantastic! what ever you do, i hope it turns out well, and congrats on getting your hands on something a little bit special.
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You could clean it up, then get someone to "relic" it...
Nah - leave as is. Not my cup of tea, but that's what I'd do.
Mark.
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Do you know how the hell it ended up in this state? What's the story behind it? Where are all the missing parts?
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Again, just my opinion, but I'd leave it be. Get it finished to make sure the signature stays put, get the hardware on and all the technical bits fixed up so it's fully functional and well set-up, but leave the appearance as it is, I think it's beautiful in its own way!!
Roo
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The trem looks weird on that, doesn't look like the traditional Kahler route, and I think the trem arm slots in between the e and B strings on all Kahlers.
Close up pics of that would be cool
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Do you know how the hell it ended up in this state? What's the story behind it? Where are all the missing parts?
as far as i know, the guitar has been like this for about 15-20 years atleast. and you can tell that's true, there's cobwebs in all the holes. story is... the guy i bought it from who is 40 something now, bought it from his friend. his friend that he bought it from i tried to paint on the lighting bolts like from the CFH guitar. after that he obviously sanded everything down and was going to re-do it. i've no clue as to when exactly there was ever hardware in it. but then the guy i bought it from bought it from his friend, was going to fix it up, and never did. he then got it signed by Dimebag in '94. so its been exactly like this since at least '94, but definitely a whole lot longer since his friend also had the guitar sitting like that for a bit before he bought it.
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The trem looks weird on that, doesn't look like the traditional Kahler route, and I think the trem arm slots in between the e and B strings on all Kahlers.
Close up pics of that would be cool
i'm going to have it filled in and restored back to a string through.
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the bridge is a weird one, not a kahler i recognise, although it does look kahler like in constuction... but i am not really the expert on obscure models
i am not sure i would ever be happy with that converted back to tune-o-matic bridge unless i could refinish it a solid colour- and thats obviously what you are trying to avoid. It involves getting out all that big block of filler and ruting a nice clean recess and making a solid wood block to fit... a very good structural repair but it would always show.
However the same thing could be done, then it could be properly routed for a new kahler with adpater plate that covered the repair
http://www.wammiworld.com/PL-4%20and%205.html
thats what i would probably try as to me it seems a little more fitting with the state of the guitar
i guess another option would be to do the fill and drill for a TOM before repainting the filled section to match the rest of the old paint in the area
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the bridge is a weird one, not a kahler i recognise, although it does look kahler like in constuction... but i am not really the expert on obscure models
i am not sure i would ever be happy with that converted back to tune-o-matic bridge unless i could refinish it a solid colour- and thats obviously what you are trying to avoid. It involves getting out all that big block of filler and ruting a nice clean recess and making a solid wood block to fit... a very good structural repair but it would always show.
However the same thing could be done, then it could be properly routed for a new kahler with adpater plate that covered the repair
http://www.wammiworld.com/PL-4%20and%205.html
thats what i would probably try as to me it seems a little more fitting with the state of the guitar
i guess another option would be to do the fill and drill for a TOM before repainting the filled section to match the rest of the old paint in the area
so would that plate allow a kahler to be fitted in the place of a floyd rose??
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you would still need to add the kahler route but the plate means you dont have to worry about filling in the floyd route. tbh i dont think its the best solution for that - keeping the floyd would make more sense, but for this guitar the idea of a plate covering the plug makes sense, and looks ok around kahlers... but would look like it was hiding something around a TOm
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well i kind of think i'm leaning toward having it refinished. i was actually leaning toward leaving as is. but the problem is this trem was routed out wrong and the front screw posts don't have any wood to screw in to. so i'm going to have to have work done to it anyway, so i might as well restore to original, especially since the holes from the original tailpiece are still on the back.
and if i'm going to do this, wez brought up a good point that it would look terrible if there wasn't a solid paint covering it.
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and if i'm going to do this, wez brought up a good point that it would look terrible if there wasn't a solid paint covering it.
Perhaps you could copy the sign and make it above the paint, but it would be like "sex-hindering" (AKA children with fear in the middle of night running to parent's bed :lol: )
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and if i'm going to do this, wez brought up a good point that it would look terrible if there wasn't a solid paint covering it.
Perhaps you could copy the sign and make it above the paint, but it would be like "sex-hindering" (AKA children with fear in the middle of night running to parent's bed :lol: )
not sure if this is what you were thinking, but no i'm not covering the signature. i meant there had to be paint covering where the bridge route used to be.
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I know, was mainly a joke, because you're undecided to what to do... I don't have idea :lol:
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ha, ok. thanks for the effort. :lol:
would any of you have some type of estimation as to how much a luthier would charge to fix this up?
i would need:
-kahler route filled in for the original tailpiece and bridge
-complete refinish
-re-fret
-possibly fixing up any other little cracks, chips
-is there anything else they could do?
again, as always i know the price on all of that could vary a lot based on different factors, but i need to get some type of estimation of what it could possibly be. $200? $500? more?
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I'm not on England, but I don't think it would be less than £500, think more like £1000 but I can be ütterly wrong :lol:
I said it because it's big work, not 10 minutes and solved :)
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I'm not on England, but I don't think it would be less than £500, think more like £1000 but I can be ütterly wrong :lol:
I said it because it's big work, not 10 minutes and solved :)
sure hope you're wrong! :lol:
if that's the case then this project will probably be about 10 years in the making.
how much for just the body work, i guess everything but the refinish? because i guess the bodywork would be the first step of course.
and by the way, i'm not in england either. US.
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you could fill the rout, and top the guitar with a nice maple veneer and do the burst thing...
really good find anyway. i like the extreme relic look. too bad that the rout is badly done. but even if you get it filled, and its been done obviously, it will just add to the vibe.
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you could fill the rout, and top the guitar with a nice maple veneer and do the burst thing...
really good find anyway. i like the extreme relic look. too bad that the rout is badly done. but even if you get it filled, and its been done obviously, it will just add to the vibe.
yeah i thought of the maple cap too, then i realized it would cover the signature, right? or is it possible to have it somehow not covered? oh wait, did you mean like a fake maple print? that might be a really good idea, then it could be cut out around the signature i guess.
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Refinish would ruin the look imo, leave it as is, so much cooler.
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Refinish would ruin the look imo, leave it as is, so much cooler.
i'm kind of leaning toward a refinish, but i haven't decided yet. plus, with how expensive it all appears to be, it'll be some time before i get the body work done, and then a while later before the refinish if i do it... so plenty of time to think.
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I think if it were me I'd go for a refinish and keep the sig intact and visible but protected.I think I would retain some of the patina and character that it adds. Whatever you decide, have fun doing it.
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wood vs epoxy?
so i want to start working on this guitar. myself. it isn't going to be left alone and its going to be refinished, though i appreciate and respect all of your opinions on leaving it. i'm no expert craftman, but i want to possibly fill in this kahler route myself if possible. i should be able to get my hands on a dremel, so how would it turn out if i just got the route level to the guitar body, and then filled it in with epoxy? it should be structurally sound, will it make a big impact on the acoustic tone? i'm not worried about looks, because i figure no matter what i'm probably going to have to cover this thing with a fake maple veneer or something.
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i should be able to get my hands on a dremel,
puny little bar-stewards that are good for nothing but inlay and the occasional small routing job like say a 5-way switch slot
so how would it turn out if i just got the route level to the guitar body, and then filled it in with epoxy?
it would not turn out good... quite possibly playable, but not good!!
it should be structurally sound
epoxy can be wonderfull stuff - but i would not want to mount a bridge to it
will it make a big impact on the acoustic tone?
my guess is it will make it almost dead acoustically - there is no substitute for filling the hole properly
because i figure no matter what i'm probably going to have to cover this thing with a fake maple veneer or something.
then you will destroy every thing that makes this guitar potentially special
the answer may not be clear or look like its going to be cheap... but dont rush into it!
having a visable wood plug may be the way forward after all
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ok, so don't use epoxy. don't use a dremel. what kind of tool(s) would i need for this job? or should i definitely not attempt this? and are you suggesting that i actually let the repair show through the finish?
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ok, so don't use epoxy. don't use a dremel. what kind of tool(s) would i need for this job? or should i definitely not attempt this? and are you suggesting that i actually let the repair show through the finish?
A router would be the best...
If you're going to leave it this way, why not show a repair, made of mahogany???
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its not what i would do normally but if the repair is done well then thats going to be better than covering the whole front with a veneer which will take away the reason you brought it... there is the options of a partial veneer but thats no easier
i didnt mean to come over as harsh but it sounded like you might be rushing into it and it needs skill and carefull thought to get right.,, worth taking time and even butchering a few cheap guitars to learn the skills involved first if you plan on doing it yourself
i will do another post later with my plan of attack to a) get it looking smart and b) keep the signiture - i just need to think a little more first.
shame your not in the uk - i would quite fancy a go at this
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its not what i would do normally but if the repair is done well then thats going to be better than covering the whole front with a veneer which will take away the reason you brought it... there is the options of a partial veneer but thats no easier
i didnt mean to come over as harsh but it sounded like you might be rushing into it and it needs skill and carefull thought to get right.,, worth taking time and even butchering a few cheap guitars to learn the skills involved first if you plan on doing it yourself
i will do another post later with my plan of attack to a) get it looking smart and b) keep the signiture - i just need to think a little more first.
shame your not in the uk - i would quite fancy a go at this
i could always send it... i get a great shipping discount where i work.
but it doesn't really matter because with how expensive things would be, i really can't afford to have everything done at once.
and maybe i don't quite understand what a veneer is. i thought it was basically just a high quality fake print. i thought i could then just cut it out where the signature would be and airbrush around it to make it look good.
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veneer is a 0.6mm to 1mm thick real wood...
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ok, considering what you want here is what i would do
1. first that block for the bridge needs levelling off. I have a router thicknessing jig i made which would take it down to the wood quite neatly. (the general idea of a thicknesser jig - http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_15.html)
2. Time to carefully strip the guitar of the black and red bits leaving the signiture area well alone. this would be done with carefull scr@ping and sanding.
3. I would want to plug that bridge hole and i would want it to fit perfectly so i would have a male and female template made on a laser cutter to a size slightly bigger than the current route. I would use the female template on the body to route out for the plug, then when i had hit a depth that was all wood i would use the male template to cut the plug from a new bit of mahogany.
i would leave the plug slightly proud so i could use the router thicknesser to get it to its final level
4. a choice at this stage, it could just be drilled for a new tune-o-matic bridge with a visable but neat plug or a partial re veneer could be done
5. if going for the partial veneer i would find some nice plain mahogany veneer. I would then draw a line on the body below the signiture and parallel to the centre line. i would then get the router thicknesser out again and reduce the thickness on most of the body by the thickness of the veneer - glue the veneer in place. it will cover the repair and effectively make the body look like a two-piece with off centre join from the front. obviously the veneer will be visable around the edge but you would have to look close to see it.
6. finishing will be an issue, obviously now you have the old section of mahogany with the signiture and a newer cleaner section of mahogany covering the rest of the body, you also have the problem that anything done to the guitar before may make lacquering awkward - easy to solve when you can strip the guitar properly but difficult when you have a section you cant touch. i would go with a slight tinit on the clean section followed by a bit of oil everywhere else - leaving it quite raw but with some protection
7. Obviously it needs a refret and some work on neck too, i would reveneer the front of the headstock and get a new dean decal made
(and none of those jobs are particularly easy!!)
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what did i get myself into... :( :?
i guess i can assume each of those jobs are all going to be very expensive, won't they? sounds like the only thing i can (should) do myself is sand off all the old paint?
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what did i get myself into... :( :?
i guess i can assume each of those jobs are all going to be very expensive, won't they? sounds like the only thing i can (should) do myself is sand off all the old paint?
My first thought when I saw this and saw the pics was "is he understanding all the work it'll have?", but I didn't want to be rude, so said nothing about :)
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what did i get myself into... :( :?
i guess i can assume each of those jobs are all going to be very expensive, won't they? sounds like the only thing i can (should) do myself is sand off all the old paint?
My first thought when I saw this and saw the pics was "is he understanding all the work it'll have?", but I didn't want to be rude, so said nothing about :)
haha, thanks. way to let me ease into the shock and disappointment.
but its really ok. i'm just really happy to have this thing. its just sitting next to my bed for now. its also good because it'll keep me from wanting to buy a new guitar every couple months. and it might be a lot but i think it should be awesome when its done.
Wez, since i'm going to need all of this body work done, would it add a great deal of time/money to the project if i wanted to add some body binding to match the neck? and do you think the neck binding will need replaced or can that just be re-dyed or painted or something to bring it out to a nice color again?
and what do you recommend i use to sand all of this paint off? i figure i can at least get started on that for now...
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About binding, you must to see how much they rounded on the edge of the body... Fender round 1/4", if I'm not wrong, some guitar has smaller others bigger...
A LP Custom binding is about .220", the LP Standard is .080" or .090", the traditional is .060"... So, if it's a small rounded edge, perhaps you can, if it's a big, you can have big trouble doing it...
I'm not sure about the binding of your neck, never worked with refretting or whatever in already binded necks...
And sanding the color out can be made with sand paper/abrasives for wood, think #60 or #80 to take the finish, but Wez knows way more than me and can make better comments
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thanks for that fernando
i know a lot of this is all just generalizations, and i won't know exactly whats going on until i take it to a luthier, but this all helps a lot in seeing what i should be doing.
and as far as sandpaper, i just need to make sure i'm not using something too heavy and messing up the wood- never worked with mahogany before.
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If I remember right I used #80/60 to to rough job, #100/120 to start taking the mess out, #160/180 and then go getting finner... The finish papers starts around #300... Some guys go until 400/600, some go until 1500, some go until A4 printer paper (about 15000 if I'm not wrong) :lol: then finish the wood
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Wez, since i'm going to need all of this body work done, would it add a great deal of time/money to the project if i wanted to add some body binding to match the neck? and do you think the neck binding will need replaced or can that just be re-dyed or painted or something to bring it out to a nice color again?
and what do you recommend i use to sand all of this paint off? i figure i can at least get started on that for now...
hard to say with the neck binding, it might clean up but if not replacing it wouldnt be too hard. Not sure i would bother - i dont think it should be about making it look new anyway. i probably wouldnt bother with body binding either but it is quite possible - even if a little fiddly around the neck area
if in doubt with the sanding then dont go rougher than 120 and always use a sanding block. It pays to have different sized sanding blocks - i might do the edges with one thats quite hard one, i.e a block of wood with felt attached then the sandpaper. I might attack the paint on the top with an eraser wrapped in sandpaper... go slow and it will get there eventually. i would do all this with the sig covered with low tack masking tape or something similar... just incase, also try to sand with the wood grain when you can. i might also use a scr@per to remove a lot but thats a tool that takes practice to use effectively.
this has got my interest now, if you want to discuss the prices i would be after then PM me - might be able to work out a deal on the whole thing :)
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pm sent wez.
some good news at least- i emailed grady (dime's old tech), and obviously he's not dime, but he did say the signature looked legit.
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hey guys. well, it's been a while and my guitar is still just hanging on the wall. unfortunately i can't really find the funds to just go ahead and fix this thing up.
now i've got a question for some of you DIY'ers and luthiers. i'm thinking of doing at least some of the work myself. i've got another unrelated project i'm working on that i need a router for. what do you guys think about getting a router and doing at least part of this work myself? i've been looking at some routers on ebay, and they're cheaper than i thought. $50 at cheapest, are any of these any good? such as... http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-3606-1-HP-Professional-Router-30000-RPM-New_W0QQitemZ310152132435QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item483681f753&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
i'd think with a router i could at least take out all of that bondo cr@p and then from there i could maybe consider filling the block back in. or if i couldn't do that if i at least routed it out that would make it a lot easier for the luthier to fill it back in.
so basically, can i do it, and what router would you suggest (without killing the bank)?
thanks guys.
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Dime wouldnt want you to tart it up!
He'd want you do rock out on it!
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Dime wouldnt want you to tart it up!
He'd want you do rock out on it!
which is what i'm trying to do. it's not playable in its current state. i'm trying to route out the bondo mess, fill it in, and throw on a regular bridge and tailpiece.
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slap a confederate flag body-wrap on it and be done, sheesh!!! :wink: :lol:
cool guitar, I hope you get it playable - love the Dean Vee headstocks.
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slap a confederate flag body-wrap on it and be done, sheesh!!! :wink: :lol:
cool guitar, I hope you get it playable - love the Dean Vee headstocks.
ha, no thanks. i'm from the north. anyway, i'm not doing anything to the paintjob or anything, i'm leaving it exactly as is. i just need to fix the bridge.
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slap a confederate flag body-wrap on it and be done, sheesh!!! :wink: :lol:
cool guitar, I hope you get it playable - love the Dean Vee headstocks.
ha, no thanks. i'm from the north. anyway, i'm not doing anything to the paintjob or anything, i'm leaving it exactly as is. i just need to fix the bridge.
I'm just kidding with you - Dime used to have an ML with a confederate flag thats all.
I would go with Wez's suggestion though of adding the veneer to the top and leaving the signature intact - if you haven't seen Wez's work already, lets just say you won't be dissapointed. All his guitars I've seen have gave me major GAS (damnitt!!!).
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slap a confederate flag body-wrap on it and be done, sheesh!!! :wink: :lol:
cool guitar, I hope you get it playable - love the Dean Vee headstocks.
ha, no thanks. i'm from the north. anyway, i'm not doing anything to the paintjob or anything, i'm leaving it exactly as is. i just need to fix the bridge.
I'm just kidding with you - Dime used to have an ML with a confederate flag thats all.
I would go with Wez's suggestion though of adding the veneer to the top and leaving the signature intact - if you haven't seen Wez's work already, lets just say you won't be dissapointed. All his guitars I've seen have gave me major GAS (damnitt!!!).
yeah, i'm kidding as well. i was never a fan of that guitar, although the USA one's look pretty nice.
i was actually talking a lot with Wez about doing this guitar for me, but unfortunately i never could get the money to do everything, and the more i think about it the less i'm willing to ship it overseas. my plan is to just fill the trem route with a bridge and tailpiece, and then paint over that area with some flat black to match the rest of the black patches on the guitar. add some battleworn black warpigs and i've got one beast of a guitar.
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I would be tempted to completely and neatly fill the old hole and start again - especially as the old trem wasn't very nice
This is slightly involved but it gets the neatest job in my opinion
Please note that I have a lot of experience in using routers and power tools and they MUST be treated with care and respect - hurting yourself is not part of the plan
What I would do is have somebody make me a matching pair of templates to a shape just bigger than the existing hole (a male/female pair that fit inside each other).
Almost like a square jigsaw piece that fits perfectly in the hole in the other piece.
They would use a CNC roter to cut these and it may be expensive but it will get the neatest job
Typically I have had these made in 3/8" plexiglas (www.Simscustom.com have been great in this capacity)
Using a router and a cutter with a bearing follower I would position the female template (the one that is the hole just bigger than he existing hole) so that I could cleanly cut out all the bondo and rough wood to leave a clean hole just as deep as is needed to get rid of all the cr@p, or just as deep as the piece of wood that you will be using to fill in the old hole
Then you would be able to fit the male part of the template into the hole if you wished and it would be a snug fit.
Take a piece of matching timber (mahogany) just deep enough to go deeper than the old hole used to be and cut a piece exactly the same shape as the male template.
As I have an inverted router table I would actually use a bearing follower router cutter to get the block I will use to fill in the hole really snug to the template.
So I will be left with a neat hole in the guitar, and a block that would perfectly fill that hole
Glue the block tightly into the hole and once dried level perfectly to the top of the guitar
Now you can either drill or rout for the bridge of your choice
Yes I have skipped a lot of the considerations needed to execute this job totally but I just wanted to give you the idea
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hey, thanks for the help feline. having templates made was not something i was considering, and that sounds like a very good idea. do you think i should be able to get the job done with a $150 router, or at least part of the job done? i'd think having the templates made should limit my errors, but never having done this before i can't claim to know what exactly i'm getting into.
and if you think i can, is there any specific attributes i should be looking for in a router?
thanks a lot for that response feline, i appreciate it.
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Wow, it's been a while since I've been here. Decided to come back and do some posting. Wanted to give a short update on this whole project. Due to money, things have been going slow. So far what's been done was that terrible bondo was taken out. I'm glad i decided to do that, the stuff just crumbled under a chisel. My uncle helped me route this out and fill it in.
(http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/5287/082009101900.jpg)
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6332/082009145000.jpg)
(http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/9191/dsc00618d.jpg)
(http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4249/dsc00622b.jpg)
(http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/4189/1001313hs.jpg)
And now over the winter i've taken it upon myself to learn how to do the re-fret myself. well, hopefully. i bought tools from stew-mac, and i'm hoping to do this myself once i'm back home for spring break. i bought the fret press caul, the inserts, a de-sta-co vertical clamp to use the caul with, flush ground fret cutter/puller, tang end nipper, a set of diamond files, and my friend who works at a welding company brought be home a 1"x1" solid block of aluminum to use as a level. I'm fairly confident with the procedure... the only thing I haven't thought about yet is how I'm going to go about getting the neck perfectly straight and holding it in place while i press the frets. Thoughts?
Oh, I also uncovered the serial number finally. It's a '79... not many of those around.
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It's looking very nice now!
I'm no expertise, but when I did fretting I just adjusted truss rod till the neck get straight... if you have a big rule it can help you, I've just hold the guitar in front of me with the neck ponting forward and see if it were straight...
I'm sure Wez or Jonathan will have a much more technicall and safe solution :)
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thanks man! i'm really excited i've finally bought everything for it! all i need to do is refret when i'm home, drill the bridge holes, put a veneer over the front of the headstock, and then clear the headstock and body. I'd also like to spray the dean logo on the headstock... i was thinking of just printing out a scale size dean logo on sticker paper, and just spray painting it on.
and yes, i'm sure that's just fine for actually putting in the frets... although i still need some type of brace or something to hold the neck so it doesn't break under the caul's pressures. and then once i go to do leveling i figure i'll just use my square aluminum piece to level it.
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How $%&#ing high are those walls?
Do you live in a cathedral?
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Fantastic job so far CJ
Good luck with the refretting
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thanks a lot Feline! i may be asking some questions in a few weeks before i do the re-fret just so i'm sure with everything.
How $%&#ing high are those walls?
Do you live in a cathedral?
hahaha... no, it used to be our guest room, it's just a weird room in the house. it's just that one wall and a sloped ceiling. i never noticed how cool it was til i decided to finish my room and turn it into my music room.
this is the result of my hard work over my winter break. still not finished, but you should've seen how it used to look.
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3875/1001316sb.jpg)
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6821/1001312f.jpg)
(http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3889/1001309v.jpg)
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Really cool! I want one of these electronic drums...
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Wow... I can't believe how old this thread is! Well, believe it or not, it's finally finished! I haven't been on this site for so long either. To be honest, I kind of gave up on BKP's. I still had my Miracle man in my Gibbo V, but I sold my custom warpig for cash and didn't think I'd ever get another one again due to price. Well luckily for me I ran into some extra cash this winter, enough to at least kind of consider BKP. I still didn't think they'd be worth it. But with this Z, I wanted to go all out and I wanted the guitar to be perfect. It was actually the clips of Bulb (and I think Nolly?) playing the aftermath's that brought me back. I decided to just go for it and got myself a set of Aftermath's.
Well, I'm glad I did. Through my Engl E530, these are the most perfect pickups I've heard. This is the tone I wanted. I'm terrible at describing tones, so I won't. But they sound killer.
As for the guitar, here's a few pics of it finally finished!
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j378/cgibsong001/Dean%20Z/P1030213.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j378/cgibsong001/Dean%20Z/P1030226.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j378/cgibsong001/Dean%20Z/P1030218.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j378/cgibsong001/Dean%20Z/P1030222.jpg)
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Wow. That is bloody awesome. Good job
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Nice work. Those pickup covers are absolutely the perfect match, too! Glad you like the aftermaths, such a good pickup :)
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well done CJ - looks like a good job!
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well done CJ - looks like a good job!
Thanks Wez! Sorry I didn't end up shipping it over to the UK to have you do it... but it was a good learning experience for me and much more satisfying in the end. Although to be fair, I cheated :lol: After months and many unsuccessful tries of trying to do the fret job myself (they wouldn't seat), I took it to a luthier to have him do the frets and laquer the guitar. So happy to finally have it done though.