Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Tech => Topic started by: Ribboz on January 12, 2010, 09:53:16 PM
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I put this in the Tech section because I wanted Luthiers point of view on this.
Ive had this neck for years, about 5 - 6 years. It has always had an issue with the thickness. At first I thought it was just the way warmoth made them and didn't think anything of it. The original issue I had was the neck felt thicker toward the first fret, and thinner near the 12th?? Like I said, I didnt think anything of it, because it was my first warmoth neck.
About two years after this one I got another, with the same shape and build. The neck felt completely different.
Well I think I have proof they made a mistake with this neck. About a month ago, I noticed this. I dont know why I never considered it before. Yes I feel dumb. But, looking over it you might think it may have grew into this but, it did not. Its been this way since I got it.
(alright no longer gonna be vague about this)
As you can see, there is space below the frets. At the 22nd there is no space under the fret, and it gradually gets larger. Look at the pictures. What I think happened. was a error in their CNC machine and it cut the fret board slightly off. The problem is, that there is a HUGE feel difference. Just look at the pictures. I'm ordering them from 1st on top to 22nd on bottom.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc44/Ribboz/IMAG0012.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc44/Ribboz/IMAG0011.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc44/Ribboz/IMAG0010.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc44/Ribboz/IMAG0009.jpg)
Just like I said, the gap below the frets grow as you look from 22nd to first.
Very disappointing.
So what do you all think?
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??? sounds odd but i would think its a bit old to do anything about it. have you measured to see if it actually is thinner at the nut - or way off advertised dimensions
the fret slot thing is minor. i havnt noticed it before on warmoths but it could be due to the compound radius board, how they slotted to allow for that andhow they actually radius the board
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Yeah sadly its too old to have them do anything about it. Atleast I think so. Yeah, you can even see it with your own eyes that its thicker near the first fret. Its the weirdest thing. I mean, Ive played it so long I barely notice it. But it just bothers me that that big mistake is there. Also lowers my view on warmoth quite a bit.
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weird... the fret slut could be just normal, but it fells thicker on the 1st fret, that's the opposite of what Warmoth does... weird
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weird... the fret slut could be just normal, but it fells thicker on the 1st fret, that's the opposite of what Warmoth does... weird
See I would have guessed it was normal. But I have another warmoth neck, with the same specs, and it feels completely different. If it wasnt for that, I would not have even considered it being messed up.
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Also lowers my view on warmoth quite a bit.
They're a volume manufacturer dealing with wood. Sometimes there's going to be a screw up. If you'd contacted them at the time I'm sure they'd have made it right. It clearly didn't stop you buying a second one though :?
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Also lowers my view on warmoth quite a bit.
They're a volume manufacturer dealing with wood. Sometimes there's going to be a screw up. If you'd contacted them at the time I'm sure they'd have made it right. It clearly didn't stop you buying a second one though :?
Like I said, I didn't know.
You can't put this all on me. I didn't know it was incorrect until I got the second one. So yet again I say, you cant put this all on me.
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If you're upset after 6 years... just sell it. :?
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If you're upset after 6 years... just sell it. :?
Yeah. Sadly though that brings up another disappointing side of warmoth.
Warmoth products hold practically no value.
> : |
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No - the gap under the frets isn't indication of a fault per se
The fret slots are probably cut when the fingerboard is still flat and they are all cut to the same depth.
When the radius is applied to the board the camber gets lower on the edges the higher you go up the neck
Think about the arc of a circle which is what a fingerbord essentially is
If the centre of the fingerboard is the top of the circle - if you follow the circumference the further you move away from the top/centre point the lower you get going downwards
So if the nut is 43mm wide - 21.5mm from the centre point you will have dropped less than at the 22nd fret end (poss 57mm wide) which would be 28.5mm from the centre.
Confused? - draw a circle and trace the changes as you move away from the centre/top
So these slot depths has no standing as far as the thickness of the neck goes IMO - although I wont say that Warmoth don't or can't get things wrong at times.
Is the problem that the neck is too big/clublike at the 1st fret area ?
You could just shave some off the back - slightly change the taper so to speak
However
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Time to break out the sandpaper and make sawdust!
Fernando - What's a fret slut? I'd like to find out :lol:
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No - the gap under the frets isn't indication of a fault per se
The fret slots are probably cut when the fingerboard is still flat and they are all cut to the same depth.
When the radius is applied to the board the camber gets lower on the edges the higher you go up the neck
Think about the arc of a circle which is what a fingerbord essentially is
If the centre of the fingerboard is the top of the circle - if you follow the circumference the further you move away from the top/centre point the lower you get going downwards
So if the nut is 43mm wide - 21.5mm from the centre point you will have dropped less than at the 22nd fret end (poss 57mm wide) which would be 28.5mm from the centre.
Confused? - draw a circle and trace the changes as you move away from the centre/top
So these slot depths has no standing as far as the thickness of the neck goes IMO - although I wont say that Warmoth don't or can't get things wrong at times.
Is the problem that the neck is too big/clublike at the 1st fret area ?
You could just shave some off the back - slightly change the taper so to speak
However
Yaknow that makes sense. Sorry not trying to be rude, you have been one of the most polite people on this forum, so "please"don't take offense. :D
The only reason I know this cant be the fact, is that I have another neck with the same specs, and they're completely different. Also this gap is not present on the other one and it has the same radius as this one.
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What do you want to do?
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To be honest, nothin. I just wanted to show something I thought was interesting. :D
I would like to sell it, but I tried and I cant even get 300$ for it :(
It cost just under 600 when I got it
> : |
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The only reason I know this cant be the fact, is that I have another neck with the same specs, and they're completely different. Also this gap is not present on the other one and it has the same radius as this one.
its possible they changed the way they do things to avoid the gaps between the purchase of your two necks
if you want solid answers you are best asking warmoth directly - maybe they will have some for you and maybe they might even be willing to do something for you
we cant really help with warmoths service other than to relate other experiences and confirm that the neck carve thing is unusual and the fret thing is not a problem.... what we can help you with now is possible solutions to get the neck working for you
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Sell it as a custom Jimmy Page shaved neck.
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Haha, that would be pretty funny.
http://bareknucklepickups.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19075.msg256754#msg256754
This is the guitar though, and I doubt I could pull it as a Jimmy page guitar XD
Still funny though :D
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Time to break out the sandpaper and make sawdust!
Fernando - What's a fret slut? I'd like to find out :lol:
Fret slot :lol:
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Time to break out the sandpaper and make sawdust!
Fernando - What's a fret slut? I'd like to find out :lol:
Aren't they those girls who model in the Guitar World Buyer's Guide?
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t313/metalunderground/Guitar%20World%202009%20Buyers%20Guide%20Covers/GW_2009_Buyers_Girls_Next_Door.jpg)
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No - the gap under the frets isn't indication of a fault per se
The fret slots are probably cut when the fingerboard is still flat and they are all cut to the same depth.
When the radius is applied to the board the camber gets lower on the edges the higher you go up the neck
Think about the arc of a circle which is what a fingerbord essentially is
If the centre of the fingerboard is the top of the circle - if you follow the circumference the further you move away from the top/centre point the lower you get going downwards
So if the nut is 43mm wide - 21.5mm from the centre point you will have dropped less than at the 22nd fret end (poss 57mm wide) which would be 28.5mm from the centre.
Confused? - draw a circle and trace the changes as you move away from the centre/top
So these slot depths has no standing as far as the thickness of the neck goes IMO - although I wont say that Warmoth don't or can't get things wrong at times.
Is the problem that the neck is too big/clublike at the 1st fret area ?
You could just shave some off the back - slightly change the taper so to speak
However
Yaknow that makes sense. Sorry not trying to be rude, you have been one of the most polite people on this forum, so "please"don't take offense. :D
The only reason I know this cant be the fact, is that I have another neck with the same specs, and they're completely different. Also this gap is not present on the other one and it has the same radius as this one.
I know what you mean - it is a bit frustrating
Trying to get to the bottom of the issue - what about the neck gives you problems or do you not like?
Is it too clubby at the low frets or too thin higher up
Does the transition just feel weird?
Does it play ok or is it hard to get a great action on the guitar?
It certainly is an interesting dilemma and made me think a bit about how it happened.
I was just curious whether it was a problem to you that you were hoping to resolve....
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I know what you mean - it is a bit frustrating
Trying to get to the bottom of the issue - what about the neck gives you problems or do you not like?
Is it too clubby at the low frets or too thin higher up
Does the transition just feel weird?
Does it play ok or is it hard to get a great action on the guitar?
It certainly is an interesting dilemma and made me think a bit about how it happened.
I was just curious whether it was a problem to you that you were hoping to resolve....
Well, I would consider stripping it and staining it black(black dye with flame maple might be neat). Also before the stain, I would like it to be thinned just a bit. Then refinished. See this would be awesome, but it costs as much as buying another neck! :D
So I'm a little turned off to the idea to get all that work done. Probably would be better to just get another one. :\
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Hard maple doesn't like to be dyed
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Hard maple doesn't like to be dyed
They do it with tops? That cant all be soft maple?
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you could test that on the heel, but you do quite often get flecks in hard maple that wont take the dye as well as other areas... you also need to be really sure its sanded to perfection before even trying. The other issue is that warmoth did their necks in an oil sealer to give them some protection... this will not help with a direct stain
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you could test that on the heel, but you do quite often get flecks in hard maple that wont take the dye as well as other areas... you also need to be really sure its sanded to perfection before even trying. The other issue is that warmoth did their necks in an oil sealer to give them some protection... this will not help with a direct stain
Hah, I really doubt I could do all that work myself. XD
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you could test that on the heel, but you do quite often get flecks in hard maple that wont take the dye as well as other areas... you also need to be really sure its sanded to perfection before even trying. The other issue is that warmoth did their necks in an oil sealer to give them some protection... this will not help with a direct stain
Hah, I really doubt I could do all that work myself. XD
Dying the neck is a skill which I wouldn't fancy practicing on something like this neck, but reshaping and then oiling is something which wouldn't be too hard (as long as you take it slow, you'd be suprised at just how little you have to take off necks to get them to feel completetly different). Afraid that I can't see your pics due to this sodding works computer, but with the help of some of the guys here, it doesn't sound too bad.
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I CAN NOT believe none has mentioned it. The reason the fretboard is away from the body is because the neck socket in the body DOESN'T have a 720 Mod to it - this is an option on Warmoth guitars :)
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I CAN NOT believe none has mentioned it. The reason the fretboard is away from the body is because the neck socket in the body DOESN'T have a 720 Mod to it - this is an option on Warmoth guitars :)
maybe nobody mentioned it because it was well past the stage to easily change the neck pocket... and the raised neck was never the issue in the first place
anyway - the reason the fretboard is away from the body is because that how this style of guitar is made. as fenders traditionally have plates. The raised neck is not really an issue at all, accept aesthetically if it bothers you. the warmoth mod is a nice idea to neaten it up, but far from a deal breaker
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I CAN NOT believe none has mentioned it. The reason the fretboard is away from the body is because the neck socket in the body DOESN'T have a 720 Mod to it - this is an option on Warmoth guitars :)
They did not offer that when the neck was made and I would not have even if they did. Also you missed the point of why I started the thread.
Thank you WezV, you put it perfectly.
Also Let this thread die. I find my old posts rude, thus embarrassing. XD