Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Tech => Topic started by: Transcend on November 16, 2010, 07:11:22 PM
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Hey guys just a quick question.
I feel the MM should be a bit tighter than it is in my guitar (i remember it being a lot tighter before)
the pot in this guitar is well and truly buggered as in only about 10% of the actual rotation makes a difference in volume
it does nothing from about 10-7 then it drops a bit until 5 then its off completely.
Could this decrease the tightness/output of the pickup overall if the pot isnt fully open?
I'm about to replace the electronics in this guitar anyway and was just wondering if this could be it
or if nothing seems tight enough after playing with the aftermath in my RGD
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If the pot is that knackered it will seriously affect your tone, so I say yes.
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thought as much.
Whats the best pots to get? i already widened the hole it sits in for a CTS one then found it was too long.
so im ok on that front.
And also is it audio taper that i need?
Also where is the best place to buy this stuff as i usually get it from ebay but its a bit of faffing i could do without really.
Also i have a mini toggle on my guitar that was for the original stock actives boost.
Do you have any recommendations as to what i could replace it with?
Im not really a fan of tone pots so i was thinking something fancy maybe?
sorry about all the questions i just want to get this right first time as money is short coming up to christmas.
Thanks very much
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CTS short shaft pots, audio taper. You can get them from here:
www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsPots.htm#CTS
Use the boost switch for a coil split?
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i was thinking coil split but the MM doesnt sound too cracking when split and the MQ well it cant be split.
Would it be possible to have it as a killswitch? but thats not really neccesary i wonder what other things can be done with guitars and switches? something i've never really looked into.
Thanks for your help Twinfan
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Killswitch would be OK.
How about a series/parallel switch? A nice alternative to the coil split ;)
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Killswitch would be OK.
How about a series/parallel switch? A nice alternative to the coil split ;)
thats actually a very good idea as i love the serial/parrallel switching i have on my RGD.
what kind of switch would i need? as the one in is a cr@ppy little plastic thing and cant really be used as anything else as its just got the active circuitry on the bottom of it.
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A simple toggle should do it, have a browse round the site I linked above ;)
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Cheers for your help got the new pot today all soldered up and its back to how i remember it sounding.
I've now learnt never to use a 100watt soldering iron on guitar parts because i cant be bothered going to my dads to get my 18watt one :D
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I've now learnt never to use a 100watt soldering iron on guitar parts because i cant be bothered going to my dads to get my 18watt one :D
Yes - very wise words
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Cheers for your help got the new pot today all soldered up and its back to how i remember it sounding.
I've now learnt never to use a 100watt soldering iron on guitar parts because i cant be bothered going to my dads to get my 18watt one :D
I assume that both these soldering irons are not temperature contolled. Is that correct?
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Cheers for your help got the new pot today all soldered up and its back to how i remember it sounding.
I've now learnt never to use a 100watt soldering iron on guitar parts because i cant be bothered going to my dads to get my 18watt one :D
I assume that both these soldering irons are not temperature contolled. Is that correct?
aye theyre both bog standard types.
both draper.
I wish i never sold my old soldering station that i had from working in mobile phone electronics.