Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Guitars, Amps and Effects => Topic started by: Transcend on May 18, 2011, 09:57:42 PM
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Well i started this around december/january time and i have finally got it finished other than a few cosmetics.
All Caps Are Orange drop 715p series other than one Cornell Dubilier 1uf cap and the United Chemi Con Caps on the Power board.
Resistors are all Vishay/Dale & Xicon.
Transformers are Onetics custom power & Hi Def Output transformer with a Onetics 5h choke.
The chassis is from Rob @ c3amps as are the transformers. Great guy to deal with and very helpful.
For my first build im really proud as i haven't got any oscillation and have a very minimal amount of hum (less than my marshall actually and this thing has about 5 times more gain on tap!)
The only issue i had was with the channel switching which was a simple mistake that took me a week to find but i wont go into that :P
I will post some gut shots after i tidy it up again as i have been fault finding since saturday so its a mess in there and still super quiet!
As you can see from the picture i still need a headshell and some knobs!
When i made my mouser order for components i only ordered 1 knob!
Clips shall follow possibly tomorrow
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and for anyone interested the books propping it up are lies & plague by michael grant.
Excellent books!
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It lives!
Yeah, I know you know I know that, but still.
Well done :)
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nice work man, how much did it cost all in? - I take it you got one of those repro PCBs ?????
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Well done. Like the white panel. Anxious to hear the clips.
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Lookin good man!
I just saw you said this was your first build. That's actually very impressive. Even experienced tinkerers get hung up on Soldano builds much worse than your little switching problem. Here's to proper research and following directions! ^^
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nice work man, how much did it cost all in? - I take it you got one of those repro PCBs ?????
Yeah i got some SLO clone PCB's (i think theyre usually $15 for the pair)
but i managed to get a good deal on a set of PCB's and the majority of the resistors & caps.
From there i just had to get LDRs, switches, pots etc & the Chassis & Transformers.
I think all in all it came to about 550-600 max including shipping & the one time i had to pay duty on a parcel.
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Lookin good man!
I just saw you said this was your first build. That's actually very impressive. Even experienced tinkerers get hung up on Soldano builds much worse than your little switching problem. Here's to proper research and following directions! ^^
Aye, I did an awful lot of research on this. Many hours of studying schematics & blogs and then searching for other peoples problems and mistakes that they made so i could avoid them.
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It goes to 11. Then it must be good :D
Looking forward to hearing some clips.
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good work!
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nice work man, how much did it cost all in? - I take it you got one of those repro PCBs ?????
Yeah i got some SLO clone PCB's (i think theyre usually $15 for the pair)
but i managed to get a good deal on a set of PCB's and the majority of the resistors & caps.
From there i just had to get LDRs, switches, pots etc & the Chassis & Transformers.
I think all in all it came to about 550-600 max including shipping & the one time i had to pay duty on a parcel.
So once you get a head cab made, its gonna cost around £750-800 for the lot. Can't argue with that for an SLO.
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That look mightly impressive, congrats mate
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sweet :D
is that a soldano faceplate too?
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it's be a power coated chassis. check out www.c3amps.com
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oh ok, thanks :)
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Excellent news, good to hear it's finished ok :D
Well done, congrats, etc... I don't think I'd ever take something like this on, it doesn't grab me enough, but I'm filled with admiration for anyone does.
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Having almost, once, built a Noisy Cricket amp and found it mind pummelingly hard I am enormously impressed by this. Many congratulations.
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yeah its a "replica" chassis but its incredibly nice and well made. The only issue i had was the drilling wasn't spot on for the boards etc it was a very tight fit.
Even though i specified exactly what i wanted.
Other than that it is fantastic
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thanks guys for your kind words.
This build is extremely well documented so it wasn't overly hard.
It has however given me the bug and i want to work on something more original now
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so what you gonna build next now that you can read schems and solder? ;)
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nice work man, how much did it cost all in? - I take it you got one of those repro PCBs ?????
Yeah i got some SLO clone PCB's (i think theyre usually $15 for the pair)
but i managed to get a good deal on a set of PCB's and the majority of the resistors & caps.
From there i just had to get LDRs, switches, pots etc & the Chassis & Transformers.
I think all in all it came to about 550-600 max including shipping & the one time i had to pay duty on a parcel.
So once you get a head cab made, its gonna cost around £750-800 for the lot. Can't argue with that for an SLO.
Well i have found a very good deal on a headshell so it wont be that much!
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so what you gonna build next now that you can read schems and solder? ;)
Haha i don't know yet im thinking about it though.
Probably something lower powered as this thing is insanely loud
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i want to work on my 30watter when I get back now. do some tweakage. you've got me in the mood.
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rackmount preamp???
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I don't have any other rack gear....
and heres a very quick and sloppy clip
setup was
Ibanez RGD with SD Blackouts > SLO clone > Peavey 2x12 with v30s
http://soundcloud.com/wartime-novelty/slo-test-1
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Sounds great. Really good tone.
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Ill do something a bit better and less downtuned this weekend once i have some knobs so i know where im setting things and have gotten a bit more used to the amp.
i just found out a valuable lesson though.
the miracle man really doesnt like the bright switch being on, far too much high end
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That's a great tone. Well done!
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That's a nice clip! Well, now I know your name on Sloclone. Thought that was you. :P
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that sounded epic :D
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Great tone :D! Well done !
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Thanks!
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Nice job and awesome sound! What biasing values do you use in power tubes?
I own the original SLO100 and I'm swapping the power tubes from factory Sovteks to TAD 6L6GC's and I think they're re-labelled JJ's... Soldano recommends cold biasing values like 25-30 mA with 6L6's. Did you test any different values with JJ's?
Thanks!
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I currently have them biased a bit cold at 33.3ma per valve.
what i use to figure it out is the plate dissipation of the tube divided by the plate voltage multiplied by .7
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I wouldn't say any of those numbers are really cold, more like on the cool side.
It's not like the 5150 I had that was idling at 14mA before a bias adjust mod.
I know Soldano recommend ~26mA for EL34's.
When I put that 50watt transformer into my 6V6 build and moved up to EL34, I made sure the EL34's were biased as cold as possible when I fired them up... the amp sounded bad. that was 11mA per valve. Once I cranked that up to 30-40mA it sounded much much better, but not a huge difference in that range of 10mA I'd say. Not as much difference as 11mA and 40mA a side. The amp I'm on about has an SLO lead channel but approx 30watt about. 390v on the plates as opposed to the 495v or whatever is in the SLO.
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I wouldn't say any of those numbers are really cold, more like on the cool side.
It's not like the 5150 I had that was idling at 14mA before a bias adjust mod.
I know Soldano recommend ~26mA for EL34's.
When I put that 50watt transformer into my 6V6 build and moved up to EL34, I made sure the EL34's were biased as cold as possible when I fired them up... the amp sounded bad. that was 11mA per valve. Once I cranked that up to 30-40mA it sounded much much better, but not a huge difference in that range of 10mA I'd say. Not as much difference as 11mA and 40mA a side. The amp I'm on about has an SLO lead channel but approx 30watt about. 390v on the plates as opposed to the 495v or whatever is in the SLO.
Mine is a touch high at 527v but everything is working fine and i havent noticed any stability issues but i am keeping an eye on it.
the 5150 bias is a bit peculiar.
i guess the tubes last ages though
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yeah I guess. I think the other main advantage is that it's probably hard to get a set of 5881's or whatever that will draw enough current to get that bias up to anything near dangerous, so people can change the valves at home easier without going to a tech. Peavey also sell (or used to sell) plastic tubes of matched valves. JJ's. I bought a couple once.
The other theory is that in the 5150, the output valves are biased so cold that it brings on cross over distortion which is 'part of the 5150 sound', or what EVH wanted or whatever.
527vDC is a good little voltage eh? you're in the plus 500 club.