Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Guitars, Amps and Effects => Topic started by: Dakine on May 03, 2006, 09:09:33 PM
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Quick question,
apart from a palm rest (yeah I'm lazy lol), whats the pros/cons of a "normal" bridge and a string thru body?
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Depends what you mean by "normal".
Some people think that stringing through the body increases sustain, but others reckon it's a myth.
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Mean like a tone pro bridge.
What ya'll think a dis?
www.lowelguitars.com custom made
(and before ya say it, NOT the dawg, the axe LOL)
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(and before ya say it, NOT the dawg, the axe LOL)
Damn.
I think that hard-tail guitars sound better than non-hard-tail, especially when compared to guitars with a floyd-rose style bridge. The difference between a standard trem and a hard-tail isn't as noticable, but then there are people who say that there's an audible difference bettwen one kind of trem and another (Callaham vs standard Fender, etc).
It's hard to say for sure, because, obviously, if you're playing two different guitars to compare, then there are more factors involved than just the bridges. From where I sit, hard-tail guitars have sounded better than not.
Stating the obvious: another difference is how they feel to play. Trem bridges kinda feel "softer", especially on bent notes.
Also, different bridges require different angles at the neck. Gibsons are more angled than Strats, even if both are hard-tails. So that feels different as well.
Anyway what the hell do you mean by 'normal'?! What's a normal bridge?! Is it a normal trem? normal stop-tail?
EDIT: I just reread your first post and I think I missed the point of your question entirely. :lol: :oops: So your question is: is there a noticable difference between string-through tail-pieces and wrap-around tail-pieces, right?
Stuffed if I know.
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LOL
yeah string thru vs. bridge :)
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Don't string throughs have a 'tighter' tension that stop tail piece?
I'm sure I read that somewhere...
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No idea
Both my Axis and JP6 are string thru but my LP obviously is bridge.
I wondered due to the SG I posted :twisted:
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what do you guys think the guitar pictured is worth?
specs;
24 3/4 scale
-2-way truss rod
-bone nut
-large jumbo
-Gotoh tuners
-Indian rosewood fretboard and headstock overlay
-long tenon neck and body joint (set neck)
-Poplar
-Mighty Mite Paf humbuckers
It is obviously custom made.
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Hard to say. Custom-type builders tend to charge a fair bit on average. On the other hand, the finish looks lousy and would bring the value down. What it's worth is prolly whatever you're willing to pay for it. ;)
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whoever decided poplar was the wood for that guitar was an idiot
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Custom is indeed difficult, and more "whats it worth to you?", just wondered as builder told me (what I believe to be) a VERY good price.
I believe it was more a "fill time" guitar, as it is not one of the highly figured "show pieces" he usually makes.
I concur Poplar is a different choice for wood on "this" guitar. It probably has obvious reasons for use though. And to call someone an "idiot" who makes a living at doing somthing and does very well with it kinda shows ignorance and a large degree of idiocy in itself.
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I've heard a lot of people say that string-thru increases the sustain. Coincidentally, they also seem to be the same people making string-thru guitars.
I've also heard a lot of people who (I don't think) had any vested interest saying it doesn't make much difference.
i haven't tried two models of exactly the same guitar with the same config. bar the bridge, so I can't tell. And even then, wood differences etc. would make it hard to be certain.
hmmm. You'd need to be a luthier, or handy, build a guitar with the fixed bridge, and then convert it to string thru to tell. and record the clips, probably, since the time it'd take would mean you'd forget.
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I have to say that my favourite is the standard strat style bridge, I dont really like my LP's TOM style bridge that much, fiddly and you cant adjust individual string action which is pretty annoying. Never played a string through though so cant comment on tone or sustain..
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Undecided here as have both types. The EB's both have a kinda bridge though (as in a hunka metal to rest palm on LOL).
Not so sure about straight over saddles and thru body.
Poplar should be "brighter" sound than the "usual" mahogany also (course lot softer too, ding city lol).
Just thought was quite interesting. NOT panting for the flame design, but other than that,hmmm, interesting.
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It sounds like it could be worth around £1200-1400 if it had a plainer finish. Dunno though it's only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it. It's got some cool specs though.
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whoever decided poplar was the wood for that guitar was an idiot
Are you on a mission to be the most obnoxious tw@t in this forum or what?
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You put in words my thoughts exactly JM :)
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Were not the only ones believe me!
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Poplar should be "brighter" sound than the "usual" mahogany also (course lot softer too, ding city lol).
Just thought was quite interesting. NOT panting for the flame design, but other than that,hmmm, interesting.
I've found mahogany and poplar to be pretty close in structural density--i.e., they are both fairly soft woods when raw. But that's only from a very small sampling and on average it could be a lot different. Also, in my experience, the neck woods have more to do with the 'brightness' or 'mellowness' of the guitar's tone, while the body woods influence whether the guitars sound 'thin' or 'fat', if you like.
So a maple body with a mahogany neck and rosewood fretboard will probably sound thin, but warm, while a mahogany body with a maple neck and board will be fat yet have a sharp attack. That's what I reckon, anyways. A luthier will know more about it all.
You could always refinish it. ;) Or pay someone else to do it. Refinishing is the rage these days and I've found it to be a good learning experience. That's if a good learning experience is where lots of things go wrong and you want to die. Your perceptions may vary.
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LOL
Thanks Searcher.
Done abit of research myself and Poplar is actually a good wood, and maybe thats why "idiots" use it, like fender,EB,B.C.Rich etc. etc. etc. (funny how lil homework makes ya sound less of a DICK! huh :)).
I am NOT getting excited, just was told what he will sell it for and it's CHEAP! (IMO).
Can live with the colour (heck check my Ovation lol, maybe have to start a family and get my JP6 and LP flamed ROFLMAO) and can certainly get it to GROWL with some BKP's.
Thats the MAIN issue really.
When I return, #1 purchase, good AMP.
Then,
Mules/Cold Sweats in LP
Painkillers in Axis or JP6
etc. etc.
too many guitars = too many BKP's to buy LOL
Nick
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whoever decided poplar was the wood for that guitar was an idiot
Are you on a mission to be the most obnoxious tw@t in this forum or what?
aw, i thought i was in the lead for that?
:twisted:
Searcher: that was rather nicely put about the woods. Well done- it's made me do a little thinking!
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Callaham probably make the best Tele (and apparently Strat, although I've yet to experience those) style bridge out there, and I like it a lot. And adjustable wraparounds or a tunomatic/stringthrough are good as well. I like Bigsbys too, but I've not A/Bed a guitar with the strings from the back as opposed to from a Bigsby so I can't say wether or not I prefer that. I'll take a bigsby over a stop bar any day though.
I'll probably cannibalise bits of a few guitars and some spare tele hardware I've got to try it out though, a bibgsby-a-like and a Gotoh tele bridge which I'll cut slots into the back lip of, in theory it should work out pretty well, and if not... I've got 4 holes in the front of my spare tele. I can live with that. :lol:
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Torn on the issue to be honest.
Between the three guitars here with me, I prefer the bridge on the Strat (Voodoocaster. it's called Jemima), a blocked off trem with a callaghan block. It's really comfortable and sustains for ages. The Tele custom (Half fender, half hadtheball. it's called Gulderina) bridge is a hardtail strat type, and my least favourite. Compared to the strat, the sound dies with alarming rapidity. Ugly Bob, the eggle wave is probably the most sustaining of all three, but I can't make any fine tweaks to intonation. It does sound a lot better than the strat, but thats mainly down to BKPs and a hollow body.
I wonder if Sinners come with vinage magnet stagger, in a left hand configuration....
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Bridge Preference?
I like suspension or humpback.
Really don't like toll.
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whoever decided poplar was the wood for that guitar was an idiot
Are you on a mission to be the most obnoxious tw@t in this forum or what?
aw, i thought i was in the lead for that?
No way man, I'm the king of th'obnoxious! I didn't mean to offend you i guess, i just don't like the sound of poplar on any fenders i've played made of it, and i don't imagine it sounding very nice on a gibson style guitar at all- i can have opinions right? Hell - obnoxious isn't even an insult, i quite like the idea of being obnoxious, its not like obnoxious is counter-productive in any way. I got yu reading about poplar, and me too a bit more actually since yu went all bitchy; i thought i must've missed something, I'm not convinced though. Poplar still sounds like a cheap and cheerful alternative to agathis, for making prototype guitars, or just entry level toys... and ikea furniture too, haha. I think most poplar needs quite a lot of grain-filler on it aswell, which can't be good for resonation?
Now lets get back to bitching about me!
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Bridge Preference?
I like suspension or humpback.
Really don't like toll.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Poplar still sounds like a cheap and cheerful alternative to agathis, for making prototype guitars, or just entry level toys... and ikea furniture too, haha. I think most poplar needs quite a lot of grain-filler on it aswell, which can't be good for resonation?
Now lets get back to bitching about me!
Actually--being pedantic here--poplar doesn't need much grain filler at all, which is something that makes it good for first-time guitar builders or refinishers. Poplar and agathis are both kinda "mahogany-lite", you could say, as far as the tone, price and appearances go.
Grain filler shouldn't affect the sound. If it does then pretty much all your expensive guitars are gonna be affected because the woods they're made of need filling more often than the cheaper guitar woods do.
And personally, I'd take poplar over agathis any day, unless we're making furniture. Or a bass. Ah, same thing. :roll: