Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Guitars, Amps and Effects => Topic started by: WezV on October 27, 2006, 06:11:11 PM
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Just finished of 4 guitars and a bass and 3 of the guitars have got BKP's in them so i though i would show and tell:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_PICT0260.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT0260.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_PICT0199.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT0199.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_IMG_0061.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0061.jpg)
The first guitar is my version of a LP Jnr. Its unusual because its made from the wrong type of ash (northern hard ash) and has a solid wenge neck. It should be overly bright but with a BKP-92 and a good tone control (300k pot and 0.047 capacitor) it is really very versatile. It goes all the way from tele-twang to bluesy LP warmth. Not bad for a single pickup guitar.
2nd is made from Black limba and burl maple with a birdseye maple neck and ziracote fretboard. Pickups are a crawler and mothers milk singles if i remember correctly. I wired it like a normal strat but with a coil split and bridge adder switch. It sounds excellent and incredibly warm, almost any classic sound you want is there.
I am still waiting for finished photos of the 3rd, its been built with my cousin and he has it for band practice. Its made from swamp ash and maple burl with a 3 peice flamed maple neck with wenge accent lines. The pickups are a set of chrome covered and engraved Nailbombs. We are very impressed with the quality and sound of these pickups, everything Tim claims they are!
Looks like i will be trying to use BKP's on all future guitars, i am that impressed!
Heres the two non-BKP instruments for anyone interested. I wish the guitar had some more BKP-90's but i had to go with what i had (Fender Black Dove's :x, dont sound too bad for the price i paid but they are the shoddiest looking pickups i have ever seen. Warped bobbins, loose windings and very fragile wiring). The bass has Seymour Duncan passive soapbars with an active 3 band EQ. Its pretty damn cool.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_PICT0227.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT0227.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_PICT0223.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/PICT0223.jpg)
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so any of these or others on your site for sale?
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These are being taken by a local guitar shop to MusicLive at the NEC next weekend. The only other one thats on my site a still have is the solid paduak singlecut guitar - its currently being refinished and i think i have a buyer for that. I dont build in large enough numbers to keep many guitars around.
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how much do you normally make one for to sell?
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I sent you a message, its probably not the right place to discuss how much i charge here - and is till need to negotiate with the guitarshop what these will be going for at musiclive. My pricing policy is still very flexible because this is primarily a hobby at the moment.
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ooooo stolen, the 3rd one is gorgeous, what pups are in it???
and that ravelle would be absolutely perfect if you had put nickel-covered MQs in it
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oop just read nailbombs, nice :D:D
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ooooo stolen, the 3rd one is gorgeous, what pups are in it???
and that ravelle would be absolutely perfect if you had put nickel-covered MQs in it
Carefull there, we aint calling it a ravelle - nobody tell fernandes :wink: Actually if anyone has any good suggestions for names to give the original shapes i would be happy to hear them!
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Carefull there, we aint calling it a ravelle - nobody tell fernandes :wink: Actually if anyone has any good suggestions for names to give the original shapes i would be happy to hear them!
You could go for the Bolero (shudders at the thought of Torvil and Dean) but that may be a little cheeky ;)
Nice looking guitars BTW
Rob...
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^ :lol:
nice guitars, though.
:drink:
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I would love to see more pics of the 3rd guitar. Looks great.
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i only really have in progress shots, heres the swamp ash back with maple and wenge centre stripe and the neck showing the 3 peices of flamed maple with wenge accent lines:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_IMG_0062.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0062.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_IMG_0063.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/IMG_0063.jpg)
the whole neck blank for this guitar came from the left over wood from the bass neck so i had to do a splice which we deided to enhance with another wenge accent line, i think it turned out nice!
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Very nice indeed.
The craftsmanship looks great and i realy dig the body shape. Would be nice to see a square on shot of the front of the body when you have one.
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The P-90 loaded "It's not a ravelle" is absolutely stunning! :o
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Heres some more pics of the guitar i made with my cousin. He has been spraying for me so i ahve been showing him how to make guitars.
particular points of interest;
Engraved Nailbombs!!
Neck wood + pin stripes
Matching wooden knobs
reverse headstock to my normal shape
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_011.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_011.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_010.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_010.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_008.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_008.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_007.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_007.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_006.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_006.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/th_finished_guitar_005.jpg) (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/finished_guitar_005.jpg)
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The Junior looks great.
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Wonderfull looking guitar.
Look great in pretty much every way. But from my point of view i would have liked to have seen it oiled rather than clear coated.
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Oil and wax doesnt work so well on burl maple, it can have faults and defects that need to be filled and i always feel the filled area shows up a bit because it ages differently to the surrounding wood - this shouldnt be a problem with it being sprayed.
It would be possible to get a similar piece of wood 'acrylized' so that this wasnt a problem. Acrylic impregnated wood can just be buffed to a shine and gloss wise it is as shiny as you make it, works brilliantly for a satin finish that still feels very 'woody', and its a lot tougher than oil and wax.
I like oil and wx on necks, but they do need more regular maintenance
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Very nice Guitars! I bet you have a big grin!! :D
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Oil and wax doesnt work so well on burl maple, it can have faults and defects that need to be filled and i always feel the filled area shows up a bit because it ages differently to the surrounding wood - this shouldnt be a problem with it being sprayed.
It would be possible to get a similar piece of wood 'acrylized' so that this wasnt a problem. Acrylic impregnated wood can just be buffed to a shine and gloss wise it is as shiny as you make it, works brilliantly for a satin finish that still feels very 'woody', and its a lot tougher than oil and wax.
I like oil and wx on necks, but they do need more regular maintenance
I have seen oiled burl maple and have enjoyed the faults on show and have seen few problems down the road unless the guitar is heavily gigged but its each to there own.
I like very woody guitars and i would take the tonal benefits of a oiled body of a clear coat every time but again this is just my opinion.
The 3 guitars i used are oiled (quilt maple with padauk back and neck, Spalt maple with bubinga back and neck, solid claro walnut) and i have had no problems. Sure a little neck maintenance is required but I sometimes think on woods like that of my guitars its allot more durable than many think.
But as I said tis a lovely looking guitar (the quality looks top notch). The clearcoat thing is all preference realy. :D
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I have seen oiled burl maple and have enjoyed the faults on show and have seen few problems down the road unless the guitar is heavily gigged but its each to there own.
I like very woody guitars and i would take the tonal benefits of a oiled body of a clear coat every time but again this is just my opinion.
The 3 guitars i used are oiled (quilt maple with padauk back and neck, Spalt maple with bubinga back and neck, solid claro walnut) and i have had no problems. Sure a little neck maintenance is required but I sometimes think on woods like that of my guitars its a lot more durable than many think.
But as I said tis a lovely looking guitar (the quality looks top notch). The clearcoat thing is all preference realy. :D
I do love oil & wax finishes, but i prefer them on simple plain guitars, like the african walnut one I have actually done oiled necks on most of the guitars i made before these. I am particularly fond of oiled zebrano necks! .
My thing with the glue is probably a slight paranoia (sp?) but there it is, and i have seen it start to happen around the inlays on some oiled necks i have done. I should probably do some tests on the scr@p bits of wood and see but like i said, if someone wanted that at the moment i would go for acrylized wood and only semi buff it - its good stuff to work with and i know there would be no problems with it
What colour is your paduak gone when its been oiled? My first guitar with a sprayed neck was a solid paduak one because i was told it would loose its bright red colour and turn brown if i oiled it.
It really does depend on the wood whether you can get away with the oil or not. I have not had many tops that needed areas reinforcing but it is somethng that we ned to be aware of, paricularly with spalted or burl wood.
I dont really have any preference either way, its usually something specified when i get a commission, but when i am making things for sale in the general marketplace it makes sense to go with what most would want. Do you know that G&L charge a lot more for their oiled maple neck guitars? These are actually cheaper to make, but G&L apparently get more returns and faulty necks on oiled ones. I dont think this is actually G&L's fault, there is no real reason for oiled necks to be any more unpredictable than lacquered necks but i dont think everyone is always aware of the extra maintenence they require. Oiled necks are actually more stable than lacquered necks because they have a balanced finish (oil on both side as opposed to oil on the fretboard and lacquer on the neck) This should mean they respond to enviromental conditions (temp & humidity) better tha a normal neck
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The padauk bodied guitars darken down considerably with age. Some go to a very very dark brown indeed.
My spalted maple top is simply oiled (tru oil) but is variable in texture and is somewhat delicate to a certain degree (mainly down to the particular slice of splat i chose) but as I knew it would be a guitar for home/studio style use only its suffered no noteable wear at all im glad to say. :D
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ah!
tru-oils a bit different to what i do for an oil and wax finish. I have heard its good but never (till recently) found a supplier in the UK. I do know where to get it now so i may give it a go. And i think tou can get tru-oil to a mega-high gloss as well if you keep buffing it
My oil and wax finishes are Danish Oil and Briwax, available at your local wilko's - it makes maintenance simple!
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Yep you are spot on with thinking you can buff tru oil to a gloss. Infact i think my guitars are buffed to a gloss on the top and then dulled back down to satin but ive never had any problem with use makeing the tops glossy again.
My guitars are tru oil on the top (if they have a top) and danish oil on the back and neck. :D