Bare Knuckle Pickups Forum
Forum Ringside => Tech => Topic started by: _tom_ on January 21, 2007, 07:16:13 PM
-
I decided the trem on my Charvel is pretty much useless as the guitar doesnt stay in tune when its used, so I'm gonna block it off (whammy bar use is boring anyway). Its a regular vintage style 6 screw strat trem. So should I:
-add 5 springs and tighten claw (are there different brands of springs, or are cheap ones from WD etc fine?!)
-block of wood between trem block and body
-both of the above
?
Also, any ideas if these screws will work in the low E saddle for adjusting the action - http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/shop/products.php?category=238&product=3134 ?
Thanks for any help
ps- Jonathan, if you're reading - I'll send off that tuner with the broken bolt in it soon, I was waiting till after xmas to avoid losing it, then totally forgot about it till I saw it sitting on my desk :lol: :oops:
-
I used a block of wood between the trem block and body (when I used to have a Strat) since the spring method still allowed some movement of the trem.
Anyway, a block of wood is cheaper and couples the tremblock back to the body for more sustain :wink:
:twisted:
-
I agree with HTH - "both of the above". I've done it with my JV Squier Strat and it works really well.
-
+1 to "both of the above".
There are different types of springs, some are stronger than others, but cheap ones should be OK since you're going to disable the trem anyway.
Also, any ideas if these screws will work in the low E saddle for adjusting the action - http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/shop/products.php?category=238&product=3134 ?
I suspect they won't - they're (presumably) to fit US-made bridges but the Charvel bridge will probably have screws with metric threads.
You could upgrade to a set of GraphTech saddles, maybe?
-
You could upgrade to a set of GraphTech saddles, maybe?
Tom - we stock Graph-tech saddles so if you need a set we could sort you out with some when we do the machine head part for you
The String saver saddles are great for tone as well as tuning issues
-
Yeah I think I may do that, how much do you charge for a set and will it definately fit my guitar?
All I really know about it is that its a Jap Charvel Model 1C..
-
Looks like I've sorted out the saddle problem using a slightly larger allen key its a perfect fit for the "stripped" saddle.
Now, I've noticed that when I bend, the bridge moves slightly, it gets pulled up a bit and makes a kinda "warbling" noise coming from the springs. I assume blocking off will stop the warbling noise.
Is any old wood good enough to use? Or do I need some good hardwood?
-
You need one thing, one simply product...
http://www.tremol-no.com/
The Tremol-No is by far the best, most effective trem-blocker I've ever seen! I have one fitted on my Fender MIJ 1957 Reissue Strat and it now functions as a hardtail, the trem is completely locked solid so it stays perfectly in tune but there is NO loss of tone, sustain or that Strat-feel that we all crave.
-
First just try tightening the springs- will secure the trem onto the body.
May be all you need to do.
Or add another spring too.
String-savers are £26 a set
-
First just try tightening the springs- will secure the trem onto the body.
May be all you need to do.
Or add another spring too.
String-savers are £26 a set
I've allready tried tightening em but it still does it - never does on my old cheap strat copy though (which only has 2 springs?!) so maybe these springs are old and worn out?
If replacing/adding more doesnt work I may try the tremel-no, thanks Mr Ed, I forgot about that!
-
when using a tremel-no on the completely locked position, would you have the locking nut clamped or unclamped while playing?
-
when using a tremel-no on the completely locked position, would you have the locking nut clamped or unclamped while playing?
Keep it clamped - you can still use the fine tuners on the Floyd when the bridge is locked in position.
The locking nut isn't designed to be used as a non-locking nut (if that makes sense :wink: ) - the slots are too loose.
-
I was going to put a block in TO's guitar (the new strat with the CS and Roland Synth pickup), but when I put 5 springs on and tightened the claw, the bridge wouldn't move anyway!
-
tremol-no worked for me and gives me choice if I ever want a trem...without too much hassle
-
Another vote for the tremolno: does exactly what its supposed to. Makes your guitar sound better when locked too.
-
Another vote for the tremolno: does exactly what its supposed to. Makes your guitar sound better when locked too.
Sounds better than blocking it off with wood? More expensive than some wood though :lol:
I'm just gonna order some new springs first, as that only costs a few quid. Seems weird that my cheap strats bridge doesnt move as much as the charvel though which I'd have thought has better hardware, and it has one less spring!
edit - Another question! Does it matter how the springs are "laid out", at the minute, the outer 2 go straight up to the outer parts of the claw and middle goes to the middle one.
Is it better to have em in a triangle kinda shape, IE middle one straight up and outer springs to the bits on the claw next to the middle one? That was a bad description :lol:
-
I used the simple approach with my Strat. Just fitted 5 springs and screwed the claw in tight. Bridge doesn't shift at all.
I even tried puting the tremlo arm back on to see if it would move at all. Bridge stayed put, tremo arm bent :roll:
-
I used the simple approach with my Strat. Just fitted 5 springs and screwed the claw in tight. Bridge doesn't shift at all.
I even tried puting the tremlo arm back on to see if it would move at all. Bridge stayed put, tremo arm bent :roll:
hahah! Perfect. I'll order new springs soon :D
Just noticed your sig - would you say Trilogies do both good clean and distorted sounds? I'm looking to get em for neck and middle in my Charvel (not decided on a bridge humbucker yet) and was hoping they'd do smooth Maiden-esque leads (think The Trooper) but also good cleans? How about a Mothers Milk middle to go with a neck trilogy?
-
Trilogies do fantastic clean sounds. You have to back them off a little, but when they're running a little cooler my uber-trilogies (wound a couple of k hotter) sound better to me than my Irish Tours. They're my go-to single coil for clean and distortion.
Of course all things arent equal there: the u-trils are in a custom shop dean with alder body and a maple neck, the ITs in a MIJ jackson (DX1) with basswood body and maple neck.
-
I used the simple approach with my Strat. Just fitted 5 springs and screwed the claw in tight. Bridge doesn't shift at all.
I even tried puting the tremlo arm back on to see if it would move at all. Bridge stayed put, tremo arm bent :roll:
hahah! Perfect. I'll order new springs soon :D
Just noticed your sig - would you say Trilogies do both good clean and distorted sounds? I'm looking to get em for neck and middle in my Charvel (not decided on a bridge humbucker yet) and was hoping they'd do smooth Maiden-esque leads (think The Trooper) but also good cleans? How about a Mothers Milk middle to go with a neck trilogy?
Hi Tom. Sorry for not replying, only just noticed you asked me a question :oops: Better late than never I guess.
The Trilogy gives a very nice clean sound, and handles distortion very well, however I wouldn't say it was particularly Maiden like. I just tried my HM Strat (with Mothers Milks) and compared it to the Trilogy using a Marshall amp. The Mothers Milk is smoother than the Trilogy, and got a bit closer, but I'd still rather use a humbucker to get Maiden sounds, even if it means sticking to the bridge (just back the tone off).
Personally I'd go for 2 Mothers Milks rather than mixing, or if you really want Dave Murrays neck pickup sound, buy an SD Hotrail, as you'll struggle to get there with a proper single coil. Trilogy may be a nice match though with a neck hotrail and one of the hotter BKP humbuckers.
-
I actually got a neck Trilogy a while ago.. still undecided on it yet, I love it for cleans and bluesy stuff but it still doesnt seem high enough output/smooth enough for the Maiden-style leads :( Mothers Milk eh? I dont think I even considered that :oops:
-
I wouldn't worry about swapping to an MM, you still won't get the tone you're after.
I should also say my MMs are Alnico IV, not Alnico V. Not sure if that contributes to them sounding smoother.
-
hmm ok. I may persevere, it could just be that its not close enough to the strings? How close is yours? Its a bit of a pain in the arse adjusting height in a Charvel because theres no simple adjustment, just foam to put under the pickup to raise it a bit.
-
The MMs are flat profile and the distance between the strings and the neck one is about the thickness of two two pence pieces. The middle one is screwed right down as it gets in the way when I'm picking otherwise.
-
Ah, I see, thanks :) My TS neck is much lower than that, I think I'll have a go at varying the height with various pieces of foam!
-
You need one thing, one simply product...
http://www.tremol-no.com/
The Tremol-No is by far the best, most effective trem-blocker I've ever seen!
I don't agree. There is a similar unit... Tremconverter from StewMac.
I both purchased Tremol-no (cheaper) and the upgraded Tremconverter -as I think it makes sense to compare new stuff and form a personal opinion ( which I highly recommend doing).
INHO Tremconverter is superior to Tremolo-no. Yes it's more expensive and yes, you have to drill one hole (which is in the spring cavity..) -but it's totaly trouble free and faster to engage! I had a knob flying off Tremol-no, lossed some tremolo flutter and on one occasion the clamp came off the trem block..., and it couldn't hold heavy de-tunings in its dive-only mode...Similar stories can be seen by visiting the official Forum.
No such problems with Tremconverter: a great product!!
www.tremconverter.com
-
The tremconverter is good but i would definately recommend getting a pro to install it, it needs carefull measurement and can be a bit fiddly unless you have some extra long drill bits at hand. Once its in its great
i havnt tried the tremol-no so cant comment on that
I have tried a bock of wood cut to size on many guitars - that works great too!!
-
Yes, I totaly agree with you that the previous Tremconverter unit was difficult to install and couldn't be done without tech's help (which was the main reason for me to go for Tremol-no), but I'm talking Tremconverter Mk2 -which I installed without any help...a 30 min job. I can compare both systems; the new pin-style Tremol-no and the new Tremconverter Mk2.
The new Tremconverter is now the least fiddly when looking at the total package offered. I'm not only talking installation, but also adjusting and operating. It's very acurate and quick and works as it should, and does not change the tremolo feel at all! Not to mention that all parts stay put and are rock solid. But I know...so I can only (but highly) recommend to try both units -if you ever have the chance.
-
well it looks like i just missed out on the MKII because i only ordered mine before christmas.
It does look slightly easier to install but you still need a very long drill bit to get the hole for the brass pole to go into the body when the trem is in use. I had the problem with mine that i drilled that hole a bit steep and the pole would get caught as it went in and out of the hole. OK - now i know what i did wrong and can install it perfectly . . . and thats why i would advise people to go see there guitar tech for something like this, because it can be done wrong quite easily . . . but like i said - great once installed and i would use it again!!
the other issue i had with the tremconconverter is that the hook that goes into the trem block was awkward to set-up correctly - and yes, i made sure i had the right 'sustain clip' before hand,
-
ah, maybe i should get one! i've always wanted to block off my trem, it annoys me LIKE HELL when restringing (see my thread...) and i only use it for dime squeeeeeeeeeels :P
can the tremconverter go into dimebomb only mode? oh, i should check the link :oops:
ah, it functions in the same way as the tremel-no! but it looks like you have to drill 2 holes..... and also, can you only have 2 springs on there at once???
-
the tremconverter replaces the middle spring so you only have two, it works fine like that with average but they also sell power springs for heavier gauges..
It can be set to to just divebomb if you want.
Its is nice and easy to set up once installed but you eitehr need to leave the back plate of or modify it with a couple of holes to reach the thumbwheels
-
hmm i see. well, i'm not sure about drilling holes in my guitar.... but i need this option of hardtail/full-floating switching....... what's wrong with the tremel-no again?
-
what's wrong with the tremel-no again?
Absolutely nothing.