Can anyone advise best wire for guitars

[Gooby]

Can anyone recommend the best sort of wire to rewire one of my guitars. I am a U.K. resident so have Maplins and the like available.

Cheers

Martin

P.S. Having recently started needed to solder a lot more and run out of trusty lead solder,
I have had to buy lead-free  :shock: . Its not fun to use.

[Philly Q]

It's still pretty easy to get hold of lead solder on eBay.  I've stocked up on it because I hate the lead-free stuff!  :)

For wire, I think most people would recommend vintage-style cloth covered wire like this:

http://www.allparts.uk.com/wire-gauge-vintage-style-cloth-covered-utility-pack-p-4362.html?p=product

Personally I find the cloth annoying to work with, so I use plastic covered:

http://www.allparts.uk.com/wire-gauge-plastic-coated-p-4358.html?p=product

You can probably get something very similar from Maplins, but I get it from Allparts because then I know it's "proper" guitar wire - I'm no electronics expert.

[FELINEGUITARS]

Yeah - if I use maplins I use the 16 strand 0.2mm stuff or whatever it is
Basically it has a lot of strands that arent too thin - it is one of the main ones that they have out on display in the shop

Just found some code FA35 for the white stuff

[Gooby]

Thanks for the replys guys most helpfull. The axe I am rewiring is my Jem and deserves some love.

I managed to pick up some sexy Tin/Lead solder on ebay, so I am a happy chappy on that score to.

Martin

[jpfamps]

Rapid electronics still sell leaded solder.

www.rapidonline.com

The US still use leaded solder (as I expect many other countries do), and as leaded solder can still be used by some industries in the UK and can still be used for repairing old equipment containing leaded solder it should be available for the foreseeable future. If you really want to push the boat out try the Future HF silver loaded solder (62% tin, 2% silver, 36% lead) as this is even better than 60/40 (due to its lower melting point at eutectic nature). We use this for all work now.

If you going to use the lead-free solder then you really need a 50W temperature controlled iron, such as the Weller Magnastat, and use at tip temp of around 425°F/220°C rather than 370°F/190°F. Trying to use a 15 W cheap effort is hopeless, and you really risk damaging your work.

I love lead.

[JustBecos]

What difference does lead solder make, I've only ever used lead free. Is it just a difference in melting point or is there more to it than that?

[Philly Q]

It's hard to put into words, it just "feels" completely different to use.  Maybe jpfamps can explain.

[FELINEGUITARS]

Lead free is harder to work with and seems hard to get a nice shiny joint which is the sign of a good connection.
The lead also seems to keep the joint a little more flexible and more resistant to breaking down (IMO)

[jpfamps]

The melting temperature difference is probably the main issue with lead-free solder. Obviously the higher the temperature the solder melts at the longer the phase transition from molten to solid, and this makes a poor joint more likely. Additionally I suspect most people are using fairly cheap irons which were designed for leaded solder.

Silver-loaded leaded is solder is the best as it has a very narrow range of temperature for its molten/ solid phase transition  and all the constituents solidify simultaneously which produces a superior joint. Once you've worked with this is is hard to go back to 60/40. Although it's quite expensive, we use silver loaded solder for all repairs as you get a much better joint, and so less likely hood of a "repair" returning.

[FELINEGUITARS]

The melting temperature difference is probably the main issue with lead-free solder. Obviously the higher the temperature the solder melts at the longer the phase transition from molten to solid, and this makes a poor joint more likely. Additionally I suspect most people are using fairly cheap irons which were designed for leaded solder.

Silver-loaded leaded is solder is the best as it has a very narrow range of temperature for its molten/ solid phase transition  and all the constituents solidify simultaneously which produces a superior joint. Once you've worked with this is is hard to go back to 60/40. Although it's quite expensive, we use silver loaded solder for all repairs as you get a much better joint, and so less likely hood of a "repair" returning.

Brilliant advice
Just looked it up - sell it at rapid electronics
click here to see

[dave_mc]

i remember reading somewhere about lead preventing "branching" (something like that) which can cause joints to fail. I'll take a hoke about on the net to see if i can come up with anything about that.

EDIT: "whiskers" was the term:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder#Lead-free_solder

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy)

I think this is where i read about it: http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2008/apr/03/research.engineering