I'm building a 1x12 cab, need some guidance.

[SG Thrasher]

Hey guys, I've been after a 1x12 for a while so I don't have to lug the 2x12 everywhere and the price of some of them is ridiculous so I've decided to build my own.

I've just done a really basic plan on paint and here it is.


I was wondering if your could give me any information on joining the pieces together, dovetails? Glue? Screws?
Also, the wood types aren't set in stone and neither are the dimensions so any recommendations would be great.

In case you're interested I'm gonna be putting a G12K-100 in there.

Thanks, Baz.

[Oli]

When i built my open backed 2x12, i used 18mm ply for the outside (straight from B&Q), and some 15mm(i think) MDF for the baffle. Inside, i used batons that i screwed into the sides, as well as glued, so it's very strong. Don't go for any weird joints- i tried to do a mitre joint, but my circular saw was too inaccurate, so i had to fill a few gaps. When you go to paint it, i'd suggest doing a few layers of primer beforehand, otherwise the paint will take on the grain pattern of the ply, and you'll have issues with the edges where the pain will either not take very well, or just keeps soaking in. If you buy a 4'x8' sheet of ply, you'll have enough (if you're clever with the layout), for 3 1x12 cabs, or perhaps 2 if you use the ply for the baffle also.

Enjoy :)

[_tom_]

www.tube-town.net make some cheap empty cabs you might want to check out. I have a British 2x12 and the quality is really good. Had it for probably 1-2 years now and its still holding up fine, havent had to tighten any screws etc. It was £140 inc. postage from Germany so I think a 1x12 will be a bit cheaper.

[dave_mc]

those tube towns are good, eh, tom? i was looking at those earlier because of this thread, they look pretty nice. how much was the postage?

(sorry for mini-hijack)

just i was kinda considering the valve junior 1x12 cab (which, granted, is a lot cheaper, but not all that much once you do a speaker swap)...

[martinw]

Screwed and glued butt joints will be fine and very strong with 18mm wood.
Once you've screwed and glued the baffle in, the thing will be as strong as houses.
You could easily get away with thinner wood, with little detriment to the strength. My standard 1x12 is 12mm birch ply throughout, and more than strong enough.
I'd make a hole in the back panel for a jack plate (e.g. from Maplins) rather than put the socket straight into the wood. Als I'd recommend a double one (wired parallel) , which will give flexibility for the future.
Always go as big a you can on a 1x12, as small ones can sound very boxy.
I'd prefer open backed in a 1x12. You can make the back panel in 3 pieces, so as to give you the choice of open or closed back.

[HTH AMPS]

if you can get Pine cheap enough in the right sizes, you might want to look into that - will be lighter and more resonant than ply.