Connecting ground to Tune-O-Matic bridge (no hole)

[puma_21]

Well, damn.

I got my BKPs in the mail yesterday, and I totally forgot that I need to connect ground to the bridge, but there is no way around it other than to drill a hole. I have a C-1 Schecter Hellraiser that orignally came with EMGs.

Does anyone know:

1. a good place to drill from and to (inside of cavity to...)
2. how big the hole needs to be
3. where to solder the wire on the Tune-O-Matic bridge
4. how difficult it is to detach and reatach the TOM bridge

Thanks very much!

This bugs me so much, because I want so badly to play on my new BKPs!!!

[WezV]

your first issue is removing the tune-o-matic bushings.  It can be a tricky job to do without damaging the finish and i wouldnt recommend you try it

ideally you want the pickup wire going from one of the post holes into the cavity but it is sometimes easier to send it to the bridge pickup route as its quite a bit closer and its fiddly drilling inside those small holes.  again i would recommend you try it

i would say you should take it to a tech but if you want a quick fix  then just put the wire going the short distance from the bridge post to the bridge pickup cavity.  No need to solder it to the bridge - just unscrew the post and trap the end of the wire in it.

that will get you playing your BKP's ASAP but really you need to get a pro to drill that hole for you at some point

[Philly Q]

I was thinking there may already be a hole drilled - Schecter quite possibly make all the C-1 bodies the same, whether they're being fitted with EMGs or passive pickups.

Wouldn't solve the problem of pulling out the bushing to put a wire in, of course.

[FELINEGUITARS]

+1 to what Wez said

Ideally you want to extract the bridge or tailpiece bushing on the treble side and drill a small hole from near the top of that socket hole through to the controls cavity
Feed a wire through the hole leaving a "tail" to go down the socket hole where the bridge/tailpiece stud will go back in
Put the stud back in place
Solder the other end of the wire to the back of a pot which is earthed

Getting the stud out in the first place is the tricky bit
I have detailed a method on an old thread on this forum:
http://bareknucklepickups.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6605.0

Here's a good way:

1)Take a big washer - about 1" across with a small enogh hole that the thread of the tailpiece stud just goes through

2)Take a piece of wood or mdf - flat about 12mm thick and drill a hole maybe 15mm or so through it (or just large enough that the bushing will pass through it unhindered)

3)Place the hole over the insert

4)Thread the stud through the washer, through the hole in the wood and into the bushing

5)Tighten up and gently keep tightening until the bushing starts to be pulled out of the body

The bushing will rise out of the body and can then be pulled out

Or use a second piece of wood to make it so that you can repeat the procedure and pull the bushing out with the stud

[WezV]

Here's a good way:

1)Take a big washer - about 1" across with a small enogh hole that the thread of the tailpiece stud just goes through

2)Take a piece of wood or mdf - flat about 12mm thick and drill a hole maybe 15mm or so through it (or just large enough that the bushing will pass through it unhindered)

3)Place the hole over the insert

4)Thread the stud through the washer, through the hole in the wood and into the bushing

5)Tighten up and gently keep tightening until the bushing starts to be pulled out of the body

The bushing will rise out of the body and can then be pulled out

Or use a second piece of wood to make it so that you can repeat the procedure and pull the bushing out with the stud

its a good method and if you did try this i would recommend heating the bushing slightly with a soldering iron.  The heat can help prevent a load of problems.  Firstly it will slightly melt the finish around the bushing making it less likely the finish will chip when it pulls up, it also melts any glue that might have been put in there - there shoudlnt be any but you never know.  also with some woods, it will release some natural oils to help lubricate it on the way out.   

but again, beware - because too much heat can be a big mistake

i agree with philly, you may be lucky and find the hole is already there - but if it is you should be able to tell by looking in the control cavity for its exit

[puma_21]

Well, I decided to do it myself...and...I'm all done!

It wasn't difficult at all. I followed this guy's directions on removing the TOM bushing. It came out easily with no body damage. I just dropped a small screw into the bushing hole and then used the stud to screw the bushing out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsZ9zBX2eDU

Since there was no hole for the ground wire, I used a small drill bit and drilled it in with my fingers (took a little bit of time) and ran the wire through and bent it along the lining of where the bushing would be. Then, I tapped the bushing back in an reconnected the TOM bridge.

I would definately recommend doing this even if you are a new to working on guitars (I've never done this before). You'll save money and you won't have to worry about some tech messing up your guitar. And, if you mess it up yourself, which I doubt you would if your careful, you can just blame yourself!

Thanks again, gentlemen!

[WezV]

i am glad it went well for you  but its a bit irresponible to suggest people try it themselves without knowing skill level. 

the reason i warned you about the potential downsides is because they can happen!! dont think for one second that they cant just because they didnt for you this one time

that little trick is something i have suggested before and i can tell you now it doesnt always work neatly, although combined with the heat i mentioned above it usually does well