An auto bias system does sound like a good idea. But do you have to commit to one type of tube?
Lets say I have an amp with 6L6GC tubes, does that mean I can't install 6L6WGC tubes? Or 5881's?
maybe that would work. I doubt it would bias anything accurately other than specified tube type and bias point.
if you use an online bias calc, you can easily see how the 70% dissipation idle current point with a given plate voltage changes for each tube (6L6, 6L6GC, 6L6WGC and 5881).
for example
6L6GC with an amp plate voltage of 475V has a suggested idle current of 44.2mA for 70% dissipation.
a 5881 in the same amp has a suggested idle current of 38.3mA
(
http://www.webervst.com/tubes1/calcbias.htm)
If you wanted to use 5881, and changed to 6L6GC, I imagine the 6L6 would be biased colder.
the danger would be specifying a tube and bias point that could lead to an overly hot biased tube if you change tube type.
sticking with 6L6 types probably reduces the risk, but you wouldn't be able to adjust the bias point even if you wanted to.
the H&K thing is better as it allows any kind of octal base tube to be biased continually, it doesn't seem as limited.
It's probably a good thing it has some protection built into it as if its so new it may not have a track record for reliability, and since it is actively maintaining a very important part of your amp, if it did have some wild failure condition, you wouldn't want it to totally cut the bias to your tubes or something.
I just don't really see the need. It's clever... sure! but external bias points and test points and a multimeter will have you biased up an ready to go in a second. And I don't think 'micro-adjustments' while I play would make a difference to tone.
I think there are more reliable safety measures you could use to protect your amp also.
AND this 'tubes up to temperature from power on' thing I read, HOW DOES THAT WORK! the only thing I can think is you have the amp, totally unplugged and cold, you put in your power lead, plug it into a cab, turn in on ...this gadget super heats the filaments to get the tubes to an ideal temperature in the time it takes you to move your finger from the 'power' to the 'standby' switch.
rapid heating of tubes to get them to an operational temperature doesn't seem like a good idea me me. but then tubes can handle bigger filament voltages than 6.3V. so maybe a higher voltage is fine and heats the tube quicker. I'd like to know more about that aspect.