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Author Topic: Black Smoke: Not good  (Read 14700 times)

Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #30 on: March 30, 2012, 06:30:54 PM »
Hopefully these are the right thing.

Toe-Knee

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2012, 07:17:56 PM »
I would be able to tell you if i wasnt colour blind....

I always use a multimeter for checking the values.

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Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #32 on: March 30, 2012, 07:50:59 PM »
yeah they all check out. i must say i'm making a right mess of the soldering though. :(

Toe-Knee

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #33 on: March 30, 2012, 07:55:31 PM »
just take it slow and make sure you tin the tip before and after each joint.

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Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #34 on: March 30, 2012, 08:31:16 PM »
Butchery. That's the only words that describe the mess I've made. I think it will work. :/

Toe-Knee

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #35 on: March 30, 2012, 08:36:21 PM »
Butchery. That's the only words that describe the mess I've made. I think it will work. :/

have you got a multimeter to check the connections?

Just so long as the connections themselves are good and you have continuity it should be fine.
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Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #36 on: March 30, 2012, 09:16:34 PM »
yeah, it connects. One of the tracks came away from the pcb board though. I had to link the next solder point on the same track with the long tail of one of the resistors. Rough. I suppose its just the same thing as a hand wired amp though lol.

Ive ordered a valve and speaker upgrade kit from watford. Hopefully it will be fine. If not I think it may get posted off to mr Jpfamps to see if it can be saved.

jpfamps

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #37 on: April 02, 2012, 06:50:58 PM »
Desoldering without damaging the board is much harder since the banning of leaded solder.

Unless I have a very good reason to, I never try to remove parts from a PCB intact: the parts are cheap, the board is expensive.

To remove parts from the PCB I snip the leads, melt the solder around the leads and carefully pull the lead through the hole. After this you can clean up the pads with some solder wick.

To make the job easier, you can add some leaded solder to the joint; leaded solder has a much lower melting point than lead-free.

These days you will also need a good soldering iron; a old 12W effort won' be able to heat the joint quick enough and you risk damaging the PCB, especially on boards with through plated holes.


Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #38 on: April 02, 2012, 08:56:42 PM »
I thought it was because I used a 40w iron. I thought it might have been too hot. Will using the lead soldered to the next point along the damaged track be ok? I wrapped it round the stub of the lead that was the next point on the track and blobbed solder on it.

jpfamps

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #39 on: April 03, 2012, 08:48:17 PM »
Sounds like you done a sensible repair to the board.

With the best will in world PCBs don't take kindly to repeated cycles of soldering and desoldering.

Regarding your iron you are actually more likely to damage the board with a lower powered iron.

I've posted on this elsewhere, but to briefly recap, the key to good soldering/ desoldering is to heat up the joint as quickly as possible to the melting point of the solder, thus minimizing heat transferred to surrounding components/ PCB tracks.

All things being equal, a 40W iron doesn't reach a higher temperature than say a 12W iron, however a 40W iron can deliver more energy to the solder joint with cooling itself, so you can heat the solder joint more quickly, and hence reduce collateral damage.

The problem with lead-free solder is it's higher melting point, typically 227 deg C, but can be higher, cf around 180 degC for leaded solder.

The necessitates the use of a higher tip temperature; I use 430 degC forlead-free work cf 370 degC for leaded solder. Obviously this increases the chances of collateral damage somewhat, however trying to melt lead-free with an iron designed for leaded, and hence lower temp, increases the likely hood of collateral.

Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #40 on: April 07, 2012, 01:26:52 PM »
Well the new valves and speaker arrived today. It works fine and sounds great so Im hoping it will hold together :)

Toe-Knee

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #41 on: April 07, 2012, 01:29:52 PM »
Well the new valves and speaker arrived today. It works fine and sounds great so Im hoping it will hold together :)

Good.

Im glad you got it sorted.

What speaker did you get and how is it?
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Modular1

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Re: Black Smoke: Not good
« Reply #42 on: April 07, 2012, 01:55:15 PM »
its the kit that somebody linked to on here. early break-up weber speaker. Thanks to everyone for your help on this. It would probably not have got done at all if not for you guys.