Extension Cabs

[Ian Price]

If I connect my amp into an extension cab what dfferences would I notice/hear? I have a Laney 5 watt amp and although it's good enough for bedroom/recording stuff I am considering either getting another amp for rehearsals/gigs or an extension cab.

If I went for an extension cab would the amp sound louder or would it give more clean headroom before it distorted? The amp itself has fantastic tone and I would like this at louder volumes (the bigger version of this amp costs about £700.00 - a bit out of my range at the mo!)

I really don't know so hope my fellow forum members can give me some pointers.

Thanks,

Ian.

[ailean]

An extention cab might well give you a 'bigger' sound, especially if you go for a multi speaker cab, and it will push more air so it may transmit your 5 watts more efficiently but overall it's the power output of the amp that will effect volume and headroom. Also the db efficiency of the speakers is a big factor, the same amp driving a 99db effiecient speaker will sound louder than when driving a 94db speaker, so worth checking your current speaker rating.

I have a Tiny Terror that's 7 or 15 watts, and 7 watts is f***ing loud playing in my lounge through a 99db single 12" (It's a Celestion G12 K 100w).

[Ian Price]

Cheers Ailean. The current speaker in my amp (Laney L5T112) is a single 12" G12H - 100db efficiency.

I'm toying with the idea of a 2 x 12 extension cab or going for a TT. Are the TTs loud enough for gigging? Obviously it has 3 times more power output available than my current amp but I assume this doesn't necessarily mean 3 tmes louder. Also, what's the clean headroom like on the TTs?

Thanks again,

Ian.

[ailean]

The power / volume relationship is logarithmic I belive. To double the volume you need 10 times the power, so to double your output you'd need a 50w head.

The clean headroom is also going to be governed by the power of the head, which is why blues players use 200w heads where a rock / metal player would use a 100w or a 50w. The valves will also impact this, if you use low gain tubes you'll get more clean headroom at the expense of gain.

As to the TT, it's not great at clean, it can do it at bedroom levels, but it will start to break up quite soon above that, so for gig levels it won't be clean. I love it, but it's just not designed for clean work.

I have a Peavey ValveKing 112 combo, and it has a clean channel which was quite impressive, and I've changed the valves to low gain and slightly brighter, now it has a really nice clean sound, but the lead channel isn't worth that much, it's ok, but the TT kicks it's ass in that department now, but I knew that when I changed the valves.

Shop around, try a few amps, if you are on friendly terms with any shop owners see if you can 'try before you buy'. I've always found playing in a shop is never a good reference, my purchases have always sounded much better once in my lounge, thats a nice bonus but it maks comparrison difficult.

[Ian Price]

Some good advice there. I used to have a Fender HRD 212 - had a killer clean tone but was just too loud and heavy.

My amp comes with equipped 12AX7s - from what you are saying it sounds like I could switch these for some lower gain tubes and get more clean headroom. I don't use the lead/gain channel much on the amp as I get most of my overdrive sounds from an OCD. What are the options on lower gain valves?

I know what you mean about trying aps out in the shop. Luckily I live near a really good guitar shop (guitarvillage) and they are happy to let people spend a hours in there trying stuff out. I may well pay them a visit as they have a rather nice looking Fender Bassman in stock - although this is equally as heavy as the HRD!!

Thanks again - I am actually learning stuff now so hopefully the long questions will stop soon!!

[ailean]

Everything I've said so far I've learned on here :)

As to valves, I'm no authority on this topic, but as I understand it, the P1 position has the maximum effect on tone. The P1 valve is the preamp valve closest (in ciruit terms, and usually physically too) to the input socket. So pick your P1 for the tone you want, I have an RFT 12AX7 in my Peavey. The other positions also effect tone, but less so, and I've replaced my P2 and P3 tubes with NOS (New Old Stock) Tung Sol 5751 valves, the 5751's are like 12AX7's but lower gain giving me more clean headroom and a better clean sound overall.

Hamfist is pretty up on valves I know, and many others on here are. There was a good thread a while ago where someone listed valve types in order of their gain, I think it was in the amps forum, have a poke around there.

Ebay is a good place to buy if you know what you are looking for, Watford Valves is a good place to do some research.

Oh one other thing I rememered hearing once, I can't verify this, but soemone told me that a closed cab will project sound better than an open cab. No idea if that's true. Anyone?

[HTH AMPS]

You're gonna struggle with 5w at a gig - christ, I used to struggle with a 15w 2x10 Hiwatt combo.

Are you relying on the amp getting heard by itself or do you plan on mic'ing it thru the PA?

The best thing you can do is get the amp off the floor and maybe 2' off the floor to project the sound better.

IMO, changing valves is not going to give you any more volume and a negligable amount of difference in clean headroom with an amp this low in output.

You'll get a better spread of sound with an extra cab for sure, but you'll want the most efficient speaker you can get (as mentioned above).  A Celestion Alnico Blue will deliver the goods here, but it's an expensive upgrade and you'd probably be better off selling the 5w Lionheart and getting the 20w version - it will give you the extra volume you need, no problem.

[ailean]

yeah, sorry I should have been clearer, you need more power first, then play with the tubes if you need / want to.

[Ian Price]

Cheers for the answers. I think I will keep the 5w amp for bedroom practice and recording and look around for a second hand larger amp for gigs/full rehearsals.

Thanks,

Ian.