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Author Topic: Tuning from standard E to Drop C  (Read 6263 times)


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Tuning from standard E to Drop C
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2005, 11:54:39 AM »
How about this: Get some really heavy gauge strings and tune to baritone lows. Your E string bocomes a B and your A string becomes an E. That's a little easier to combine with a standard E tuned guitar.
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Tuning from standard E to Drop C
« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2005, 05:18:17 PM »
you know what guys.  im just gonna keep standard tuning.  
its never let me down....hahaha
i know im going to get bored of the alternate tuning some day....
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Joe Dorcia

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Tuning from standard E to Drop C
« Reply #17 on: November 19, 2005, 07:09:51 PM »
At the mo i am using GHS Boomers, 11's and tuned down to low A#. The tuning went A#, F#, C#, F#, A#, D#. I think thats right. It worked too. Very flappy strings, twas so dark!

Hope it helps

Dorcia #861


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« Reply #18 on: November 22, 2005, 10:34:50 AM »
Hello mates...
- I do this stuff constantly...
work on setups of standard tuned guitars for students, and working musicians-the tuning most guitars were made for-
-and then the slacktuned guitars for those from from dark side.
-There is a difference.
every different gauge and type of string has an optimum tonal range based on plain/wrapped, matierial,core diameter,length, and tension.
-Think of harps & pianos:small short strings for high tones, and thick long ones for bass.
-The guitar-symphony of compromises that it is, puts 6 strings side-by-side at almost the same length-picture the bridge on a classical guitar for an extreme example. Electrics have more room to intonate, but still basically within the same compromise. It's amazing they sound as good as they tuning is like bees flying-science says it's wrong.
  The lower you tune the whole set of strings, the less tension, more flab,less edge-D'Addario publishes tension/gauge info on their packages...
I use 13's-stock rating of a collective tension of 178lbs/81 kg at standard tuning-These same strings tuned down to" A" below standard 'E' must be a reduction of  30-40 lbs, or 14-18 kg of collective tension ( I'm guessing here-probably more..."Anybody?")-Bass strings tuned down a fifth from their original designed tension become toneless percussion-almost voiceless.Why bother?
   -It sounds so cool-
 Heavier guitar strings are great to a point- Once the strings get over
.060", they lose the icy attack and edge that guitar sound is all about...
  -I've tried Baritone strings where the low 'B' string was .070"-starts becoming a bass at this point. Dead,round,tight as pizza cheese...
   My trick is to use two 'E' (guitar) strings  ( different guages, but both originally intended to be 'E' strings), and then on up the set to a standard 2nd/'B' string- no treble E at all.-Put them in a box for when you grow up and 'buy the Volvo',buy clothing and cd's from the supermarket, and start tuning standard again.
My sets for playing in 'A' are  as follows:
1) : .017-treble 'A'
2) : .026- e
3) : .036- c
4) : .046- g
5) : .052- d
6) : .056-bass 'A'
-I buy my own strings individually, or plunder factory sets.
The tension is there, believe me!-
But it's still a compromise-
I think it's also important to know when to stop worrying about the physical impossibilities of guitar as we know them, fussing over unachievable perfection, and play the damned things.
Slacktuned Axes  should be setup if you're going to stay there for long- the effect of  slacktuned strings is that they fret sharper to the harmonic-bending is more exagerated, etc.-  and they generally require more compensation ( length, bridge saddle away from the nut) to intonate. Tremolos need to be sprung, or blocked to match the tension, or ye'll never be happy. Baritones, long scales, thicker strings, hardtails, good setups, and  a plan- It's ideal to have different axes for different "roles", and tunings-like golf clubs, tools, and cars.
 like violins/viola/cello/bass in different ranges that compliment each other- the right tools for the job.
hardtailed  long scaled axes are ideal for abyssal low tunings,
and if you must have a wiggle stick,  make sure the tension is there.
Don't tune lower than you can intonate-
-I sometimes have to move bridges ( mostly Floyds ) south to get them "in the zone" of their intonation adjustment spread.-then the guitar is no longer ready to just "tune back up" to standard E- it becomes a short scale Baritone.-surgery, and permanent devaluing change.Beware!
   I wonder why musicians don't use both tunings in their music, or have a standard tuned guitar contrasting with a Baritone tuned a 4th-5th down in the same piece of music...Too much finger watching, and not enough music going on!-
 Congrats on making it through my ranting post-you rock...
-Drac the windbag

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Tuning from standard E to Drop C
« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2005, 11:38:58 AM »
Being a folkie and playing the acoustic more than the electric - I tune to DADGAD and Sawmill tuning alot (I use 14s as strings on the acoustic) - I have to say my Washburn acoustic has suffered no ill effects from continual tuning and retuning.  

Although I do put everything back to EADGBE after a session, just so that I can have a quick strum without getting serious.
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