You could do it that way (keep in mind that colour codes are different for BKPs) but what I was suggesting was
NECK VOLUME PUSH-PULL wired for phase reversal
BRIDGE VOLUME PUSH-PULL wired for coil split both pickups at once
MASTER TONE (no switching)
If you really want to have separate switches for coil split on each pickup and phase reversal what I would recommend is:
NECK VOLUME PUSH-PULL wired for coil split on neck pickup
BRIDGE VOLUME PUSH-PULL wired for coil split on bridge pickup
MASTER TONE PUSH-PULL wired for phase reversal on bridge pickup
It doesn't matter which pickup you wire for phase reversal, it only applies when the pickups are both on at once, you just need one of them to be out of phase with the other. In an Explorer it would be easier to route the wires back from the switch on the tone pot to the bridge tone pot, because they are closer together, and also I think if you are going to have two coil split push-pulls it would be the least confusing layout to have the neck volume pot switch the neck pickup and the bridge volume pot switch the bridge pickup.
I think this is a better solution (buying a third push-pull pot) than drilling the guitar for a micro toggle. If you can fit one push-pull into an Explorer cavity you can fit three. Keep in mind that it will be much easier if you assemble this as much as possible on a template before dropping the harness into the guitar and connecting pickup wires, rather than trying to solder it in place. If you follow the format I have suggested only the neck pickup hot wire will need to be soldered to the actual lug on the pot. The rest of the wires will either be soldered to the back of a pot (black and bare ground wires) or to switch terminals (green and white neck to neck vol switch, green and white bridge to bridge vol switch, red and black bridge to master tone switch).