Searcher, what you say is a little extreme. I did write for a magazine once (synthesizer mag tests) and the reviews are written by the mag editors, and if you read well between the lines, you will understand which product the reviewer like and which not. But a reviewer cannot "destroy" a product, especially if it comes from a major company that advertises in the mag.
You cannot go too confrontational, unless your editor-in-chief backs you up or the product is a huge screw-up. Anyway, there are not many really bad products being released anyway (depending on the price range for sure). But read the reviews well, if a product gets 4 out of 5 in sound, it will already be flawed. The effect won't have the same dynamics as the best analog pedal, and the amp with 4 stars didn't excite the reviewer with it's sweet and rich midrange. In today's business, where competition for gear is huge, a 4 out of 5 product is inferior. Or do you think BKPs would get 4 out of 5 for sound? Anway, you should always, always, always play stuff yourselves before purchasing. Also a wah might get a 3 or 4 in sound because it has a special frequency range that doesn't sound great with the reviewer's rig, but maybe it just hits the right frequency for your guitar, amp and taste and you could be the luckiest guy with it.
A guitar mag for me is giving an overview, nice stories, feeding my GAS and offering some new ideas for playing - and as said, Guitarist is #1 to me in that field, it's just real good quality journalism ...