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Author Topic: My new BKP equipped guitars  (Read 7213 times)

38thBeatle

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My new BKP equipped guitars
« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2006, 08:37:25 AM »
The Junior looks great.
Send three and fourpence we're going to a dance
BKP's: Apache, Country Boy, Slowhands.

stu__r

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« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2006, 09:14:31 AM »
Wonderfull looking guitar.

Look great in pretty much every way. But from my point of view i would have liked to have seen it oiled rather than clear coated.

WezV

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« Reply #17 on: November 02, 2006, 04:56:22 PM »
Oil and wax doesnt work so well on burl maple, it can have faults and defects that need to be filled and i always feel the filled area shows up a bit because it ages differently to the surrounding wood - this shouldnt be a problem with it being sprayed.

It would be possible to get a similar piece of wood 'acrylized' so that this wasnt a problem.  Acrylic impregnated wood can just be buffed to a shine and gloss wise it is as shiny as you make it, works brilliantly for a satin finish that still feels very 'woody', and its a lot tougher than oil and wax.

I like oil and wx on necks, but they do need more regular maintenance

Johnny Mac

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« Reply #18 on: November 02, 2006, 08:40:43 PM »
Very nice Guitars! I bet you have a big grin!!  :D
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stu__r

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« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2006, 10:53:56 PM »
Quote from: WezV
Oil and wax doesnt work so well on burl maple, it can have faults and defects that need to be filled and i always feel the filled area shows up a bit because it ages differently to the surrounding wood - this shouldnt be a problem with it being sprayed.

It would be possible to get a similar piece of wood 'acrylized' so that this wasnt a problem.  Acrylic impregnated wood can just be buffed to a shine and gloss wise it is as shiny as you make it, works brilliantly for a satin finish that still feels very 'woody', and its a lot tougher than oil and wax.

I like oil and wx on necks, but they do need more regular maintenance


I have seen oiled burl maple and have enjoyed the faults on show and have seen few problems down the road unless the guitar is heavily gigged but its each to there own.

I like very woody guitars and i would take the tonal benefits of a oiled body of a clear coat every time but again this is just my opinion.

The 3 guitars i used are oiled (quilt maple with padauk back and neck, Spalt maple with bubinga back and neck, solid claro walnut) and i have had no problems. Sure a little neck maintenance is required but I sometimes think on woods like that of my guitars its allot more durable than many think.

But as I said tis a lovely looking guitar (the quality looks top notch). The clearcoat thing is all preference realy. :D

WezV

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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2006, 08:33:41 AM »
Quote from: stu__r


I have seen oiled burl maple and have enjoyed the faults on show and have seen few problems down the road unless the guitar is heavily gigged but its each to there own.

I like very woody guitars and i would take the tonal benefits of a oiled body of a clear coat every time but again this is just my opinion.

The 3 guitars i used are oiled (quilt maple with padauk back and neck, Spalt maple with bubinga back and neck, solid claro walnut) and i have had no problems. Sure a little neck maintenance is required but I sometimes think on woods like that of my guitars its a lot more durable than many think.

But as I said tis a lovely looking guitar (the quality looks top notch). The clearcoat thing is all preference realy. :D


I do love oil & wax finishes, but i prefer them on simple plain guitars, like the african walnut one  I have actually done oiled necks on most of the guitars i made before these.  I am particularly fond of oiled zebrano necks! .  

My thing with the glue is probably a slight paranoia (sp?)   but there it is, and i have seen it start to happen around the inlays on some oiled necks i have done.  I should probably do some tests on the scr@p bits of wood and see but like i said, if someone wanted that at the moment i would go for acrylized wood and only semi buff it - its good stuff to work with and i know there would be no problems with it

What colour is your paduak gone when its been oiled?  My first guitar with a sprayed neck was a solid paduak one because i was told it would loose its bright red colour and turn brown if i oiled it.

It really does depend on the wood whether you can get away with the oil or not.  I have not had many tops that needed areas reinforcing but it is somethng that we ned to be aware of, paricularly with spalted or burl wood.

I dont really have any preference either way, its usually something specified when i get a commission, but when i am making things for sale in the general marketplace it makes sense to go with what most would want.  Do you know that G&L charge a lot more for their oiled maple neck guitars?  These are actually cheaper to make, but G&L apparently get more returns and faulty necks on oiled ones. I dont think this is actually G&L's fault, there is no real reason for oiled necks to be any more unpredictable than lacquered necks but i dont think everyone is always aware of the extra maintenence they require.  Oiled necks are actually more stable than lacquered necks because they have a balanced finish (oil on both side as opposed to oil on the fretboard and lacquer on the neck)  This should mean they respond to enviromental conditions (temp & humidity) better tha a normal neck

stu__r

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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2006, 09:43:30 AM »
The padauk bodied guitars darken down considerably with age. Some go to a very very dark brown indeed.

My spalted maple top is simply oiled (tru oil) but is variable in texture and is somewhat delicate to a certain degree (mainly down to the particular slice of splat i chose) but as I knew it would be a guitar for home/studio style use only its suffered no noteable wear at all im glad to say.  :D

WezV

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« Reply #22 on: November 04, 2006, 08:52:18 AM »
ah!

tru-oils a bit different to what i do for an oil and wax finish.  I have heard its good but never  (till recently) found a supplier in the UK.  I do know where to get it now so i may give it a go.  And i think tou can get tru-oil to a mega-high gloss as well if you keep buffing it

My oil and wax finishes are Danish Oil and Briwax, available at your local wilko's - it makes maintenance simple!

stu__r

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« Reply #23 on: November 04, 2006, 09:27:25 AM »
Yep you are spot on with thinking you can buff tru oil to a gloss. Infact i think my guitars are buffed to a gloss on the top and then dulled back down to satin but ive never had any problem with use makeing the tops glossy again.

My guitars are tru oil on the top (if they have a top) and danish oil on the back and neck.  :D