Author Topic: Blocking off a strat trem - whats the best way? (Read 16573 times)

_tom_ · « **on:** January 21, 2007, 07:16:13 PM »

I decided the trem on my Charvel is pretty much useless as the guitar doesnt stay in tune when its used, so I'm gonna block it off (whammy bar use is boring anyway). Its a regular vintage style 6 screw strat trem. So should I:

-add 5 springs and tighten claw (are there different brands of springs, or are cheap ones from WD etc fine?!)
-block of wood between trem block and body
-both of the above

?

Also, any ideas if these screws will work in the low E saddle for adjusting the action - http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/shop/products.php?category=238&product=3134 ?

Thanks for any help

ps- Jonathan, if you're reading - I'll send off that tuner with the broken bolt in it soon, I was waiting till after xmas to avoid losing it, then totally forgot about it till I saw it sitting on my desk :lol: :oops:

HTH AMPS · « **Reply #1 on:** January 21, 2007, 07:48:20 PM »

I used a block of wood between the trem block and body (when I used to have a Strat) since the spring method still allowed some movement of the trem.

Anyway, a block of wood is cheaper and couples the tremblock back to the body for more sustain

:twisted:

Twinfan · « **Reply #2 on:** January 21, 2007, 10:33:30 PM »

I agree with HTH - "both of the above". I've done it with my JV Squier Strat and it works really well.

Philly Q · « **Reply #3 on:** January 21, 2007, 11:09:05 PM »

+1 to "both of the above".

There are different types of springs, some are stronger than others, but cheap ones should be OK since you're going to disable the trem anyway.

Quote

Also, any ideas if these screws will work in the low E saddle for adjusting the action - http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/shop/products.php?category=238&product=3134 ?

I suspect they won't - they're (presumably) to fit US-made bridges but the Charvel bridge will probably have screws with metric threads.

You could upgrade to a set of GraphTech saddles, maybe?

FELINEGUITARS · « **Reply #4 on:** January 22, 2007, 12:33:07 AM »

Quote from: Philly Q

You could upgrade to a set of GraphTech saddles, maybe?

Tom - we stock Graph-tech saddles so if you need a set we could sort you out with some when we do the machine head part for you

The String saver saddles are great for tone as well as tuning issues

_tom_ · « **Reply #5 on:** January 22, 2007, 12:40:30 AM »

Yeah I think I may do that, how much do you charge for a set and will it definately fit my guitar?

All I really know about it is that its a Jap Charvel Model 1C..

_tom_ · « **Reply #6 on:** January 23, 2007, 08:16:39 PM »

Looks like I've sorted out the saddle problem using a slightly larger allen key its a perfect fit for the "stripped" saddle.

Now, I've noticed that when I bend, the bridge moves slightly, it gets pulled up a bit and makes a kinda "warbling" noise coming from the springs. I assume blocking off will stop the warbling noise.

Is any old wood good enough to use? Or do I need some good hardwood?

Mr Ed · « **Reply #7 on:** January 23, 2007, 08:55:49 PM »

You need one thing, one simply product...

http://www.tremol-no.com/

The Tremol-No is by far the best, most effective trem-blocker I've ever seen! I have one fitted on my Fender MIJ 1957 Reissue Strat and it now functions as a hardtail, the trem is completely locked solid so it stays perfectly in tune but there is NO loss of tone, sustain or that Strat-feel that we all crave.

FELINEGUITARS · « **Reply #8 on:** January 23, 2007, 08:56:37 PM »

First just try tightening the springs- will secure the trem onto the body.
May be all you need to do.
Or add another spring too.

String-savers are £26 a set

_tom_ · « **Reply #9 on:** January 23, 2007, 09:16:14 PM »

Quote from: FELINEGUITARS

First just try tightening the springs- will secure the trem onto the body.
May be all you need to do.
Or add another spring too.

String-savers are £26 a set

I've allready tried tightening em but it still does it - never does on my old cheap strat copy though (which only has 2 springs?!) so maybe these springs are old and worn out?

If replacing/adding more doesnt work I may try the tremel-no, thanks Mr Ed, I forgot about that!

BloodMountain · « **Reply #10 on:** January 23, 2007, 10:37:55 PM »

when using a tremel-no on the completely locked position, would you have the locking nut clamped or unclamped while playing?

Philly Q · « **Reply #11 on:** January 23, 2007, 11:31:32 PM »

Quote from: BLOODMOUNTAIN

when using a tremel-no on the completely locked position, would you have the locking nut clamped or unclamped while playing?

Keep it clamped - you can still use the fine tuners on the Floyd when the bridge is locked in position.

The locking nut isn't designed to be used as a non-locking nut (if that makes sense

) - the slots are too loose.

PhilKing · « **Reply #12 on:** January 24, 2007, 12:55:17 PM »

I was going to put a block in TO's guitar (the new strat with the CS and Roland Synth pickup), but when I put 5 springs on and tightened the claw, the bridge wouldn't move anyway!

sgmypod · « **Reply #13 on:** January 24, 2007, 04:06:33 PM »

tremol-no worked for me and gives me choice if I ever want a trem...without too much hassle

MDV · « **Reply #14 on:** January 24, 2007, 06:19:24 PM »

Another vote for the tremolno: does exactly what its supposed to. Makes your guitar sound better when locked too.