Soldering Irons

[badgermark]

So I love messing with electronics; pickups, switches, and messing around with my effects. But my soldering iron is fooked. I need a new one. My one came with an electricians took kit, so a basic plug into the wall jobbie, around 30W I think.

What's the best wattage/type to get for guitar work? Only be used for inside guitar stuff and when I get myself a BYOC kit.

Please help me BKP people! I loves me soldering, took me 3 hours to pimp my tele with a 4-way switch and Country Boys. Yes, three hours.

[FELINEGUITARS]

This one looked good
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=219133&doy=29m10#overview

[WezV]

i have a similar one to that, whatever you do get a few tips and experiment with which ones you like best.

for the circuit boards on the byoc kits a fine tip works great but you may want something a little bit chunkier for sodlering the larger components

[badgermark]

Groovy, I shall browse my local Maplins. I remember that too hot an iron will cook pots and caps. Melted many a pot in the past... So what wattage/temp am I looking for?

[Roobubba]

I'm no expert here, but I think something like 30-50W is fine for most jobs you'll ever do...

[HTH AMPS]

I use an 18w Antex iron for all amp-work, pedals and guitars.  Using anything more is pointless and you're gonna ruin stuff since your soldering technique won't be good enough yet.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=4061&doy=30m10

These Antex irons last forever - I've gone through a few tips over the years, but the iron itself keeps on going.  All the cheapo ones burn themselves out and are a waste of money (same when buying DMMs - it's Fluke or nothing)

 :twisted:

[Elliot]

Also check this out: http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

I use the same soldering iron as HTH- the stand and sponge is essential.  

While you're in Maplins buy some desoldering braid (sold under the soldamop brand): http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=soldamop&source=15&SD=Y

and a tip tinner and cleaner: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=tip%20tinner&source=15&SD=Y

For a few quid more these things will mean your iron is properly cleaned and tinned and that you can remove the cr@ppy old solder/components before putting new stuff on (which is essential for modifying pedals).

As to pedal mods - I would try learning the trade by using a Monte Allums kit on a pedal you already have or get cheap 2nd hand one on ebay before going the whole hog and making a new pedal from scratch.  A second hand Ibanez TS7 or Boss DS1 to mod can usually be had for cheap and those effects are dramatically improved by modding.  The TS7 with its three cr@ppy pcbs will teach you ultimate patience  :(

[Philly Q]

I don't know much about particular brands (mine's an Antex, I think), but I'd recommend an adjustable-temperature iron.  

That way, you can get it hot enough for soldering grounds on the back of pots quickly (without damaging the pot), and turn it down for connections to switches and pot lugs.

[gwEm]

antex are decent enough. but if you want something nicer to use, spend the extra and get some kind of weller - you won't regret it - i do alot of soldering and would rather have an entry level weller than a cheap iron with fancy features.

[WezV]

You dont even need a hotter iron for soldering onto the back of pots, its much easier to do them if you remove the back surface slightly first

I scr@pe the back of the pot with a stanley knife to remove plating and rough it up a bit - after that there are no problems getting the wire to attach

But i still agree that adjustable is best, i like the feeling of control

[jpfamps]

Just to clear up a few misconceptions. Using an iron with too LOW a wattage rating is more likely to damage components. A 50 W iron won't achieve a higher temperature than a 15 W iron but will heat a joint up to the required temperature quicker so less heat energy is conducted to the work. An under powered iron will require the tip to be in contact with the work much longer and thus more heat energy will be conducted to the work potentially damaging components. The is especially important when soldering to pots or speaker terminals that have a large termal mass. If you have to leave the iron on the work for more than a few seconds it is not up to the job.

The best irons are low voltage (element lasts longer) and temperature controlled. The temperature should be adjusted depending on the type of solder used NOT the termal mass of the joint. If you have to turn the iron up to solder larger joints you need a more powerfull iron.  Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than standard 60/40 leaded solder, which is being phased out due to RHOS. Lead-free solder is quite hard to work with and unless you have a very good reason not to use it then I would use 60/40 or if you want to push the boat out 2% silver solder.

Personally I use a 50 W Weller Magnastat WTCP 51 which can be found on the web for around £100.  A wide variety of tips are available for these, and the tip temperature is determined by the type of tip used. This is obviously a significant outlay and probably more than most people would be prepared to pay. For most people a 20-30 W mains iron will be more than adequate.  I don't have much first hand experience of the Antex brand, but they have a good reputation and are stocked by Maplins, which is always useful if you need a new tip (which you eventually will!)

Regarding DMMs (yes I know this isn't the theme of the thread) I'm 100% with HTH. Fluke is only the way to go especially if you are poking around in valve amps. The real bargain at the moment is the Fluke 25, which is a military version of the 70 series, which can be picked up on the 'bay for £30-40.

[badgermark]

Thanks for all the help guys, I shall be picking up the 18W iron posted above from maplins and a few doo-hickies to go with it.

Thanks for all the help, and clearing up some misconceptions. The article posted was also really useful. Thanks!