OMG - What's a soldering iron?

[MrBump]

So, the two calibrated Nailbombs should be arriving this week.

I've cut a pretty cool pickguard from an amazing piece of paisley acetate.

Two 500k CTS pots are on order, as is a Schallar MegaSwitch and metallic shielding tape.

Hmmm...  I'm a bit worried that I might have to DO something with all of this kit come the weekend!!!

I'm putting a brand new pickguard and replacing all the electrics on my Charvel ST Custom.

I've read all that I can find online about wiring this stuff up.  Does anyone have any suggestions for comprehensive wiring diagrams?  The Seymour Duncan site is pretty good.  I'm thinking that I might actually need to get a push/pull tone pot, as I'm thinking that I might want to switch the pickups from parallel to serial, but still keep the switch for more standard sounds...

Anyone have any advice?

Cheers.

Mark.

[WezV]

if you are unsure about it all take it to a pro to get the wiring done.  its easy enough to just change pickups but there are lots of little things that can go wrong when doing all the wiring at once - really depnds how much experience you have with electronics

[MrBump]

thanks - taking it to a shop WOULD be an option...

But I'm feeling brave.  I'm perhaps not as inept as I'm suggesting...  But I DO need help with diagrams - not sure that I could come up with novel wiring/switching options myself.

[Jonesy76]

Try this website.......

http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/category/.wiringresources/

I get a lot of my ideas for more off the wall ideas from there.

The best thing for wiring though is good flux for your solder.  I do all my soldering with nothing more than an 18watt iron, with low heat solder and damn good flux to help everything flow......just keep a damp cloth to hand to wipe off the flux after you've joined everything up.  If you leave the flux on the components it'll have a tendency to corrode the backs of your pots over time.

[MrBump]

Try this website.......

http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/category/.wiringresources/

Thanks, that looks pretty good...

[Philly Q]

Which Schaller Megaswitch did you go for?  It's not configured like a normal Fender switch so you haven't got the same wiring options.

The "E" model switch gives you the split humbuckers in positions 2 and 4, and the outer coils in position 3.

The "P" model gives you the same options as a PRS rotary switch, which I really like the idea of - I wish I had an HH guitar with a slider switch!

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs/Megaswitches.html

[MrBump]

It was the "P" model.

I'm pretty excited now - been looking through this forum, and it all looks fairly straightforward...

I think that one of the problems is that I'm not really sure what tonal variety I actually want.  Full humbucker in bridge and neck definitely.  And probably SC in those positions too...  And that suggests the middle position as split front and back, I guess...

I think that sometime too much choice can be a bad thing...  Maybe I'll just hardware the bridge straight to the jack and bypass the volume etc...

 :)

[WezV]

I think that one of the problems is that I'm not really sure what tonal variety I actually want.  

in that case go for the standard P-model wiring as shown on the diagram that comes with it.  Its got some nice options on it as it is

[MrBump]

Thank you, sir.  I will have a good look at that.

Mark.

Love your guitars, by the way.  Just checked out your site - very nice indeed!

[pagan7]

As regards the copper sheilding tape. It's ok in the control cavity but don't put any in the pickup cavities unless you want a "boxy" sound from your nailbombs. I lined the pickup cavities on my RGT with it and couldn't work out why my new nailbombs sounded so nuetered after hearing such good reports about them. Tim suggested removing the tape and boy what a difference. My nailbombs now grunt and sing in all their unfetered glory.
Goodluck with the install, you're going to love them.

[MrBump]

Thanks, Pagan.  I suspect that your Ibanez isn't a million miles away from what my Charvel will end up like.  Interesting point about the shielding.  From the factory only the pickguard was shielded, and I was wondering whether or not to do the cavity.  I guess not.

Mark.

[Mavet]

As regards the copper sheilding tape. It's ok in the control cavity but don't put any in the pickup cavities unless you want a "boxy" sound from your nailbombs. I lined the pickup cavities on my RGT with it and couldn't work out why my new nailbombs sounded so nuetered after hearing such good reports about them. Tim suggested removing the tape and boy what a difference. My nailbombs now grunt and sing in all their unfetered glory.
Goodluck with the install, you're going to love them.

How come shielding the cavities affect tone?
can anyone explain it phisically?
(sorry for the thread stealing)

[pagan7]

I don't understand the science of it but Tim suggested that because the copper sheilding was "earthed" it effectively created a third coil when the strings vibrate and somehow cancels or muffles some of the signal from the actual coils, possibly by restricting the feild of the magnets. Or at least I think thats what he said  :?  All I know is that by removing the sheilding from the pickup cavities my pickups suddenly "came to life" whereas before they were muffled and one dimensional.

[WezV]

anything thats made of a ferrous metal will have an effect on a pickups magnetic field, reshaping the field to some degree and thereby changing the sound.

[Ted]

I don't think pickup cavity sheilding is necessary at all...

Control cavity is a must though and shielding paint is much much easier to work with...

Copper tape is OK for pickguards though.