Tone Pro Bridges

[horsehead]

Has anyone tried them? My bridge on my tokai has somehow managed to end up flat to the body of the guitar (not a clue how but the driving of the other guitarist is envolved I'm sure!). This seems to have totally messed it up & I thought of putting one of the tone pro bridges to give the guitar a bit more clarity. Has anyone tried them & if so what do you think?

[AndyR]

I've not tried their bridges yet, but I do have two sets of kluson-type machineheads - very nice.

I'm going to be in the market for a T-O-M bridge as well soon, and Tonepros is definitely where I want to start looking if they can help (mine's for an Epi SG, so it's got "screw" type posts that go into metal sockets sunk in the guitar rather than the traditional posts - not researched it yet to find out what my options are...)

[ToneMonkey]

What sort of bridge is it?  I'm presuming a TOM type.

If I understand you right then it could just be the the threads of the posts have been stripped.  All you need are two nuts to replace them (not in the fact that you have to be a man to do it).  Put two nuts on the post and lock them together by twisting them opposite directions until they're fairly tight together (it doesn't need much force at all).  Then using a small spanner, unscrew the post using the bottom nut.  To put the new one's in you do the opposite, using the top nut (I do it by hand until it's too tight and I need to use a spanner).

[Matt77]

I have a Tonepros bridge on my Feline Lion and I'm going to get one for my Gibson when I get round to it. The Feline is a lighter guitar but sustains a lot longer which I put down to a mix of a) being a better built guitar and b) having the Tonepros bridge.
I think Jonathan seems to rate them highly.

[Twinfan]

I've got one on my Epiphone SG.  No noticeable difference from the stock Epi one if I'm honest.  They're a good high quality bridge, so if you're building guitars like Jonathon is or replacing a broken part then I'd probably fit them.  As a supposed 'upgrade' they're not worth the cost in my opinion.

[ToneMonkey]

I've often thought about shaping a wooden shim to go under a TOM.  My figuring is that currently any vibration has to go though the bridge and then then that vibrates the studs which vibrates the guitar.  I was thinking that increasing the suface area of contact between the bridge and guitar might work well.  Any thoughts?  Could also work for this little problem.

EDIT: Royalities can be paid in beer  :D

[Will]

I've often thought about shaping a wooden shim to go under a TOM.  My figuring is that currently any vibration has to go though the bridge and then then that vibrates the studs which vibrates the guitar.  I was thinking that increasing the suface area of contact between the bridge and guitar might work well.  Any thoughts?  Could also work for this little problem.

EDIT: Royalities can be paid in beer  :D

I can't relate too much to that, but Jonathan is refitting a Kahler to my LP, and rather than put the front studs in (where the bridge would be), he is laying it flat on the body of the guitar, with the aim of more contact.
and FWIW, he is using TonePros tailpiece studs to hold the Kahler on

[ToneMonkey]

That's 'cause he's a clever man.  All that hair keeps his brain warm and active  :D  Could still get me a beer though.  Speaking of which that's where I'm off now.  See ya.

[FELINEGUITARS]

I ultimately favour the tonepros bridges and the locking studs for the tailpiece rather than the tailpiece with the grub screws (which are good but I think that the locking studs gives a tighter grip and more tone transference.

I also quite like using aluminium tailpieces - feel they help vintage tone

[horsehead]

is that the KTS ones Jonathan?

[FELINEGUITARS]

I will often just buy the Gotoh ali tailpiece and use it with the Tonepros locking studs

[Fikealox]

Sorry if I'm slow here, but does that mean I could for instance change the posts on my ESP eclipse to Tone Pros locking ones and use the same (TOM) bridge and tailpiece with it?

[HTH AMPS]

I will often just buy the Gotoh ali tailpiece and use it with the Tonepros locking studs

Johnathon, have you used the Faber tailpieces, bridges and locking studs?

They got great reviews on the LPF and the prices are right too (aluminium tailpiece 28Euro, locking stud kit 24Euro, brass saddle ABR 38Euro).  There are also 'aged' options which generally cost no more except for the bridge where its an extra 10Euro.

Been meaning to try them for ages, but I'm trying to stop buying things for a while (planning on moving house).

[Will]

Johnathon, have you used the Faber tailpieces, bridges and locking studs?

They got great reviews on the LPF and the prices are right too (aluminium tailpiece 28Euro, locking stud kit 24Euro, brass saddle ABR 38Euro).  There are also 'aged' options which generally cost no more except for the bridge where its an extra 10Euro.

Been meaning to try them for ages, but I'm trying to stop buying things for a while (planning on moving house).

I believe PigTails are also favoured over there?

[FELINEGUITARS]

Sorry if I'm slow here, but does that mean I could for instance change the posts on my ESP eclipse to Tone Pros locking ones and use the same (TOM) bridge and tailpiece with it?

Yes but only on the tailpiece
You will need to change the bridge though as it fastens with grub screws