Hello again,
me bruthers...
-What's up with these snake oils?!
-I guarantee you that if your tuners are ok,
your nut is shaped, slotted,spaced,and fastened in the appropriate place, your frets are true, and your bridge (well, maybe the 'right' one)solidly anchored in "the zone",
yer axe will sing, and you won't need any secret sauce to compensate for jobs not done, or not done right...
-Gibson Tune-o'matics are ok, but always need those bridge saddles deburred-sharp wind binding corners , and unshaped string slots will work against you-50% of all T.o'Matix I run across are exactly as they come from the factory, with string slots that are exactly the same size, regardless of the guage of the string that occupies 'em...
on the other extreme, if they are corroded to the point where they look like they've been in a glass of cola overnight, change 'em out!-
T.O.M. saddles ( graphtech, too) come in 3 different heights, as well, and you need to disassemble the bridge, and measure a single unmounted saddle to be sure you are getting your replacements in a dimension that will protrude above the slot they sit/adjust in...I learned the expensive way ordering graphtechs by net, and they didn't match my bridge...
beware-
Check your Fret scale ,too...
-Go to the 12th fret--
First measure back to the nut-this should be exactly half the scale length-BASTA!-no slop allowed, here, and if the realization point (last contact as the string exits the slot) is not spot on, yer doomed-roller bridges are not desirable, and if you do use 'em, make sure the rollover point is also spot on...they require maintenance , are generally made for strats/LP's only, and don't last long...
Then go back to the 12th fret, and measure half the scale length to the saddle on the e strings-It would be nice to have this be about one third to one quarter back from "full forward", as all the strings will need to be compensated for, adding length to the scale to play in tune-pushing down to fret the note bends the tone of the string 'sharp'-
You might be surprised to find mismatched parts that defy the scale length, and they might look great, but their placement & dimensions could condemn playability-I run into this all the time with violin family instruments-or, like when yer car cr@ps out- pop the hood:"everything looks great", still doesn't work. DAMN.
If everything's in the zone, then set your intonation- you don't need a strobe tuner to do this either...
Best of my best to ye all...Drac