Neck doesn't fit body

[WezV]

yeah, thats why plugs are so much better than just shoving some B&Q dowel in there

the threaded inserts are a great idea though - especially if you are liekly to be removing the neck a lot because you dont need to worry about wood getting stripped out

kits are available here
http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html

and much cheaper but might need more work here:
http://simnettguitars.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1119.0

[FELINEGUITARS]

We cut hardwood dowels from maple using a plug cutter

Presumably that also lets you match the direction of the grain? 

Exactly

[Philly Q]

kits are available here
http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html

and much cheaper but might need more work here:
http://simnettguitars.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1119.0

One caution about that cheaper kit, if fitting to a regular Fender guitar - as he says, the inserts require a 7.5-8mm hole, which means you're leaving very little wood between the insert and the edge of the neck.  I'd be worried about the wood splitting.  The inserts I used only needed a 1/4-inch hole.

I wish that Manchester Guitar Tech kit had been available a year or so ago - £45 isn't cheap, but I spent a lot more than that and many, many hours on the internet trying to get inserts and machine screws from the USA!   

[badgermark]

Thanks for all the help guys, I sanded the neck pocket a little wider and the neck still didn't fit. Plus it seems to high as well, around 3 or 4 mm taller than how my fender tele sits. Sod it, i got a proper squier neck off evilbay, and the no name one is up for grabs, shall be ebay'd soon.

[WezV]

kits are available here
http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html

and much cheaper but might need more work here:
http://simnettguitars.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1119.0

One caution about that cheaper kit, if fitting to a regular Fender guitar - as he says, the inserts require a 7.5-8mm hole, which means you're leaving very little wood between the insert and the edge of the neck.  I'd be worried about the wood splitting.  The inserts I used only needed a 1/4-inch hole.

I wish that Manchester Guitar Tech kit had been available a year or so ago - £45 isn't cheap, but I spent a lot more than that and many, many hours on the internet trying to get inserts and machine screws from the USA!  

true, i can see why the manchester tech one costs so much and its definatly a more ready to go solution.. the one from simo is good for those of us that build from scratch and get to choose our own spacing and dont mind teh modern looking bolts... i might give it a go soon

does the fact you spent more money mean you had to buy in bulk and have some spare??

[Will]

Thanks for all the help guys, I sanded the neck pocket a little wider and the neck still didn't fit. Plus it seems to high as well, around 3 or 4 mm taller than how my fender tele sits. Sod it, i got a proper squier neck off evilbay, and the no name one is up for grabs, shall be ebay'd soon.

Are you sure its a case of the body not fitting the neck, rather than neck not fitting the body?

[Philly Q]

does the fact you spent more money mean you had to buy in bulk and have some spare??

I have loads of stainless machine screws in both 8-32 and 10-24 sizes, all 1-3/4" long with Phillips oval heads.  The 8-32 fit a Fender neck plate, the 10-24 have slightly bigger heads so they need a thicker plate (or ferrules).

I don't have any spare steel threaded inserts, but I do have a few brass ones, again in 8-32 and 10-24.  The 8-32 are about 3/8" long and need a 1/4" pilot hole, the 10-24 are 1/2" long and need a 3/8" pilot hole.  They're exactly like these:

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html

The brass inserts are fairly easy to get hold of, but I had to get someone in the US to order the steel ones for me because they wouldn't ship overseas.

Let me know if you need some Wez, I owe you a favour!  :D

[badgermark]

Thanks for all the help guys, I sanded the neck pocket a little wider and the neck still didn't fit. Plus it seems to high as well, around 3 or 4 mm taller than how my fender tele sits. Sod it, i got a proper squier neck off evilbay, and the no name one is up for grabs, shall be ebay'd soon.

Are you sure its a case of the body not fitting the neck, rather than neck not fitting the body?

Little from column A, little from column B. Like i said, i swore, said sod it, and bought another neck. Thanks again chaps.

[FernandoDuarte]

The brass inserts are fairly easy to get hold of, but I had to get someone in the US to order the steel ones for me because they wouldn't ship overseas.

Humm a luthier told me on Warmoth's forum to don't use the brass inserts, because they can brake inside and get a pain in the @rse to take it...

[WezV]

thx phil, i sent you a PM - i didnt mention size but i would be happy woth the 10-24 size as i rarely use neck plates on my builds

i am not worried about the brass snapping because as long as its treated right it shouldnt happen..  the thing i will do is test an insert in an offcut before doing it on the actual neck... that should highlight any issues.  I imagine if i tried to put them in a solid macasser ebony neck then they might be more likely to snap, and pretty pointless as well since ebony holds a thread quite well.  i have plans for a telecaster with a sapelle neck which is quite like mahogany so needs a bit of extra insurance to prevent the screw threads stripping out

[Philly Q]

I can see the brass inserts being a potential problem, simply because the threads are softer than the steel screw so if you tighten really hard, you could strip the threads. 

Some people see threaded inserts as a means of putting MASSIVE PRESSURE on the neck screws on the basis that this improves the tone, but I personally think that's a load of hogwash - IMO the screws only need to be tight enough to hold the neck firmly without shifting.

What's more of an issue is fitting the inserts in the first place - apparently if you try to fit them in hard wood without cutting a thread first  (as shown on the Manchester Guitar Tech installation instructions), the outer threads on the brass inserts aren't strong enough to cut the wood and the brass can "fold" on itself.

When I used the steel inserts, I just drilled the pilot holes and let the inserts cut their own thread (using a bit of dry soap on the threads to stop it sticking).  I was expecting it to be tough, but they went in easily - drilling the holes in the right place was the hardest part of the job. 

It would be extremely difficult to get the inserts back out though!