Nut(ty) Neck Question(s)

[AndyR]

I got myself a re-issue Danelectro last weekend, but I'm having big problems with tuning it. Truss-rod needs a bit of tweak to remove some excessive relief, that'll happen shortly when I restring it. The bigger problem is the nut. It's some kind of metal (quite soft as it turns out), held on to the neck by a single screw into the end of the fretboard.

The nut is a little high anyway (though I might be sticking with this when the neck relief is sorted because I'm likely to want to use this guitar for slide) but I'm also getting very bad binding problems in some of the slots. The binding, in conjunction with a quite springy-neck, is causing havoc on tuning stability.

I'm looking at getting some nut files – it was about time to invest in them anyway, but the remedial action I need to take on this thing seems to be hastening it.

Question 1 – What sort of gauges for a nut file?
On electrics, I use 11-49s, almost exclusively. Ever the tight-wad on things that are actually important, I want to buy as few files as possible!
Should I be aiming at getting files as close as possible to the string gauges?
I originally thought one should use an 11 for an 11, etc. But this does not seem to be the case at all.
I've been checking out various suppliers, and I've recently come across a 3 double-sided file set (with handles) that has the following gauges:
".016", .028", .040", .045", .054", .062".
My initial reaction was that this wouldn't do at all, but the guy at the suppliers (who I know from many years back) told me that they will "probably do from ".010" – ".070" or thereabouts if used with some skill"
What do our resident nut-cutters think – If you only had that set to hand, would you be prepared to attempt a nut for 11-49? :D
(Btw, he's also offered me a good deal on a Hosco 10 file set – still more expensive, but only by £15... I'm inclined to think that this is the set to get, but if the experts here reckon the above gauges would do the job anyway...)

Question 2 – Dano nut, keep the metal thing?
I've always been suspicious of metal nuts since I had brass on my first electrics in the early 80s. I've managed to just about stop the binding on the low E now (careful use of needle file on the back edges of the slot, and then an old string as an abrasive chord, then a vaseline/graphite mixture as lubricant), but this same procedure has had no effect on the A string binding so far.
Once I get nut-filed-up, I am extremely tempted to ditch this nut and replace it with a bone/substitute in a Les Paul kind of fashion.
Again, what do the experts think? Looking at pictures, this would not be "historically correct", but I'm more worried about tone. I believe that it will only affect the tone of the open strings – am I misguided in this assumption?

Question 3 – Does a springy neck improve with a truss-rod tighten?
I feel a bit daft asking this, especially as I'm about to find this out in the next few days – and if I can fix the nut, it's not big deal anyway.
Because it's at the heel end and completely hidden, I've got to take the thing apart – I've never done one of these before. Based on the relief that's there, and experience of my other guitars, I'm planning a quarter turn only at this stage and then stringing her up again. Is this likely to stiffen the neck any? (I've never paid attention to this before when adjusting relief, or I'd have some idea myself!).

Many thanks one and all :D

[WezV]

1.  i feel the closest you can get is best but it depends on the headstock as well.  the string pull on a dano is pretty straight so if the slots do go slightly wider it shouldnt be a problem.  On a headstock with splayed strings you really need those slots as close as possible - just slightly larger than the string diameter is best.  I would get files smaller than you need as these can still be used to make wider slots.  wide files cannot be used to make narrow slots.  ideally you want all sizes but that isnt always practical for the home set-up so make do with what you have and make good use of fine sandpaper folded in half to smooth the slots as well

2.  i think i would replace it with a bone one but you should be able to get the aluminium one working fine if you wanted to keep it

3. ??? necks and truss rods can be unpredictable beasts.  Do the 1/4 turn adjustment and let it settle in for a bit  to see how this one behaves.  It just the same as a headstock adjustment.. just a bit more fiddly and frustrating to get to

[AndyR]

Nice one, thanks Wez :D

Especially the "I would get files smaller than you need as these can still be used to make wider slots.  wide files cannot be used to make narrow slots." - I don't know why, but that hadn't even crossed my mind! :roll:

It sounds to me like I need the 10 file set (.010", .013", .016", .024", .028", .032", .036", .042", .046", .056"), especially as he's offering me a deal. The other set sounds like it will do the Dano alright, but might not be the way forward if I want to do anything on my Gibson types later.

And I'm very re-assured by your answer on the bone replacement - it means I can attempt to rectify the metal one with no fear! If I succeed, then great, if I fail, then the more conventional blanks appear to be easier to get hold of.

Thanks for that.

[Oli]

When you go to cut the nut, start with the large slots, and work your way to the narrow ones. The files are incredibly easy to break, and you want to get a feel for how they run through the material (the .010 can snap really easily if it binds in a slot). Get a candle or a tea-light and run the file over it every now any again to lubricate the sides to minimize binding.

Good luck :)

[AndyR]

Thanks Oli, that sounds like a good tip :D

[Philly Q]

Get a candle or a tea-light and run the file over it every now any again to lubricate the sides to minimize binding.

That is a neat tip.  :D

[AndyR]

It's fixed :D and I haven't even ordered the files yet :roll:

I tightened the truss-rod (btw, it's got the best seated bolt-on neck I've ever come across - at first I thought it was stuck, but it just a really nice snug fit).

I cleaned and lubricated the existing nut slots.

I put my favourite D'Addario 11-49 set on. (The others seemed roughly the same weight)

It's in tune, stays in tune, minimal nut-binding, can't tell whether the neck is less springy - but I suspect it is slightly. The action is just right for me now. It could go lower at the nut end but only ever so slightly, and that would jeopardise slide playing - so I'm keeping as is.

But the tone!! Wow - what awful strings do they ship these things with!!??

With the D'Addario 11s it's still got all the bite and the Dano's characteristic tone, but where it was tinny and weedy before, it now has warmth and a bit more body. Also, the bridge pickup balances the neck a lot better.

I suppose it's possible that the neck's seated better now and that's what's caused the change rather than the strings. But who cares? I'm a very happy bunny - everyone needs one of these once they're set up nicely!