replacing an LFR

[CJ]

before i get any further, has anyone here replaced a Dean LFR with an OFR? did it fit? i've asked here before, but figured i'd try again.

anyway, on to my real question... do i need to get the whole OFR kit to replace my LFR, or do i really just need the actual bridge piece? it seems to me like it'd be unnecessary to replace the springs, nut, etc... but i could be way off.
thanks.

[gingataff]

Assuming that the bridge fits you wouldn't need to replace any of the other parts, however if you buy an OFR you'll probably get all those bits anyway and they might be better quality so assuming the locking nut also fits it may be a decent upgrade.

[CJ]

well my point is (i'm not sure how they're sold) i'd like to just get only what i need. ideally it'd be nice to replace everything, but as far as money goes, i'd just like to replace the most important pieces that will actually make a difference.

[FELINEGUITARS]

The most important factor is to check the sustain block length
Floyds come with 3 different height blocks 32mm/37mm/42mm
Getting the right one will ensure that the block doesnt end up sticking out the back of the guitar or isnt too short

You do want to have the springs etc as they are superior quality to the ones on your LFR system
Do also have the mounting posts changed as the OFR ones will have a better pivot  for the trem
The only bit you may not need is the locking nut.

[CJ]

ok, thanks for that. one comment though about the locking nut... on mine after i tune, when i lock the nut some of the strings go sharp. does that mean mine is no good, or is that fairly normal?

[MGheartGuitar]

The OFR will fit, the sustain block length IS important so make sure you measure that before ordering. The only real issue will be the size/shape of the baseplate of the unit; The LFR will be bigger on the bass side than the OFR. The posts will line up just fine, and it will drop right in, but you will have a gap on the bass side of the unit about 6mm wide. To my experience, it doesn't affect playability/functionality in any negative way, so as long as you don't mind the difference in aesthetics then you'll be fine.

[CJ]

The OFR will fit, the sustain block length IS important so make sure you measure that before ordering. The only real issue will be the size/shape of the baseplate of the unit; The LFR will be bigger on the bass side than the OFR. The posts will line up just fine, and it will drop right in, but you will have a gap on the bass side of the unit about 6mm wide. To my experience, it doesn't affect playability/functionality in any negative way, so as long as you don't mind the difference in aesthetics then you'll be fine.

hey, thanks for that. if a little 6mm gap is the price i'll have to pay for a much better quality trem system, i have no complaints with that.

[Lazy_McDoesnothing]

ok, thanks for that. one comment though about the locking nut... on mine after i tune, when i lock the nut some of the strings go sharp. does that mean mine is no good, or is that fairly normal?

That's normal.  I usually tune my guitar just a bit flat before clamping the strings at the nut to compensate.

[MGheartGuitar]

ok, thanks for that. one comment though about the locking nut... on mine after i tune, when i lock the nut some of the strings go sharp. does that mean mine is no good, or is that fairly normal?

I didn't notice this before; usually the culprit behind this common problem is the string retainer bar behind the nut being too high. With the guitar strung up and all the strings under the bar, screw it down until you see the bottom of each string down as far as it will go into the headstock side of the nut. There is a slope pointing down towards the end of the headstock and if the strings when not locked up are not at rest against the slope, the blocks will push them down into the slots forcing them sharp. Hope that also helps!

[CJ]

ok, thanks for that. one comment though about the locking nut... on mine after i tune, when i lock the nut some of the strings go sharp. does that mean mine is no good, or is that fairly normal?

I didn't notice this before; usually the culprit behind this common problem is the string retainer bar behind the nut being too high. With the guitar strung up and all the strings under the bar, screw it down until you see the bottom of each string down as far as it will go into the headstock side of the nut. There is a slope pointing down towards the end of the headstock and if the strings when not locked up are not at rest against the slope, the blocks will push them down into the slots forcing them sharp. Hope that also helps!

thanks. not really a clue what you're talking about since i don't have this guitar with me at college (uni), but i'm sure you know what you're talking about and i'll be sure to check this once i get home.

[CJ]

any suggestions for where to buy an OFR (in the US)? should i be hesitant about Ebay for any reason? and what brand should i go for? i'm not really sure whats the best, but i'm basically looking for the cheapest i can get since from what it sounds like all OFR's are going to be decent enough.