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Author Topic: Finishing Pedals  (Read 4747 times)

Keven

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Finishing Pedals
« on: April 19, 2010, 01:43:59 AM »
Hi! sorry to spam the board with my pedal questions, but i've got 2 kits in the mail and i want to do a proper finishing job, mostly.

i have finished these two designs. and i'm looking for a good way to print them to a pedal. currently my COA would be to print these on inkjet, on label paper, apply it to the pedal, and add some mag tack over it (the translucent stuff you use to cover books with), but i'm wondering if there's another way for such full color prints? i know some guys here have some cool finished DIY enclosures, so maybe there's some help to be had.

I'm quite happy with these designs, even if they's mostly just shoddy photoshop jobs, they're eye catching and do the trick :D
My BK's:
Black Dog8-Riff Raff8 / Black Dog7-Mule7
C-Bomb Set / Blackhawk Bridge
Holydiver Set/ BG50 Set

cerpintaxt

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2010, 10:26:03 AM »
There's a lot of really good info over on the BYOC forum about enclosure finishing. Looks like the way to do it is to use waterslide "decal" paper. I think with the inkjet version you have to let it dry for like 24 hours though and hit it with decal spray, just like you said, or else it runs. I like your designs, they're pretty rad!  8)

juansolo

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2010, 11:29:54 AM »
Waterslides are a pain in the arse with a inkjet printer and are only really an option with a laser. With inkjet you let it dry then flash over it a couple of times with lacquer. Then apply. Fiddly, very fiddly.

Have a look at frequency central's OHP stylie way of doing it detailed on BYOC, which is cheap and cheerful and gets excellent results.

I do it differently still. I use adhesive transparent 'paper' from Crafty Computer Paper. It's easier to apply than waterslides once you have the technique down. Essentially print, apply, then press down to make the adhesive spread. This is the only real awkward bit in that you need to use the backing paper (so as not to damage the print) over the top of the decal, then rub hord on top of that with your thumb. Whilst keeping the backing solidly in place. It's easier than it sounds... After that, just lots of lacquer over the top and you're done. I drill the holes after the first couple of coats then apply the rest of the coats after that. Well, when I say I, I mean marauder, I'm ludicrously bad at spraying. If you're painting the box first it helps to wet flat it between coats. If like me you prefer the naked finish, just get the top of it as flat as you possibly can before you start.

Edited to add: The white adhesive decals give an excellent finish but have WAY stronger adhesive than the clear. They're really not easy to do at all. I try to avoid those when I can.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2010, 11:31:50 AM by juansolo »
When you´re racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just pies.

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Ratrod

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2010, 11:46:45 AM »
Here's what I did.
I painted the box white.

I printed out the backgound where it would line up with the lettering for the knobs and switches that were in pdf.
 
I printed the lettering over the background.

I took that print to a copy shop and copied it on semi gloss tranparent sticker paper with a laser color copier.

I cut it out and stuck it on the box.

Then I put on the gold lettering and finished it with clear coat.


BKP user since 2004: early 7K Blackguard 50

cerpintaxt

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2010, 01:11:58 PM »
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/products-Adhesive-papers_075.htm I take it you guys mean this kid of stuff? I might have to get some, that sounds far easier than transfers!

juansolo

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2010, 09:32:09 PM »
Yep the transparent stuff is the stuff I use. Examples HERE. Everything from the Vibratron downwards are adhesive. Brazillian Beaver, Fuzzy Kitten, Super Duck and Foreign Contaminant are on white. All the others are transparent (some of them with a white painted square behind them (Clone Abduction, D*A*M Buster, SG-1 & Zack in a Box), that's a pain, don't do that. Just paint the whole box white and use transparent. The majority before the Vibratron are waterslides.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2010, 09:39:44 PM by juansolo »
When you´re racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just pies.

http://stompage.juansolo.co.uk

Keven

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2010, 03:23:54 PM »
Actually i called a local print shop. they laser printed on glossy labels what i needed. i also have 6 copies of each design on a page in case i $%&# up the sticking part. it cost me a whooping 6$ for both designs :D

i'll just paint the sides of the enclosure a matching color with a big brush to leave some texture on, and with that i think i'll have a little design going!

thanks for the help however, expect some NDIYPD soon!
My BK's:
Black Dog8-Riff Raff8 / Black Dog7-Mule7
C-Bomb Set / Blackhawk Bridge
Holydiver Set/ BG50 Set

Keven

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 12:15:10 AM »
i've reworked the BSIAB design. modeled after a (of course) traynor amp.

it has tubes!... not ;)

painted the sides and front with black acrylic, it's still drying but it's safe on the pedalboard. looks nice. not too professional, but not too DIY either
My BK's:
Black Dog8-Riff Raff8 / Black Dog7-Mule7
C-Bomb Set / Blackhawk Bridge
Holydiver Set/ BG50 Set

juansolo

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Re: Finishing Pedals
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2010, 03:30:41 PM »
Impressed, top job matey.
When you´re racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just pies.

http://stompage.juansolo.co.uk