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Author Topic: Guitar paint  (Read 5422 times)

Modular1

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Guitar paint
« on: June 09, 2011, 10:51:19 PM »
Thinking of respraying my frankenstrat. What kind of paint should I be using? The paint job on it at the moment was on it when I bought it and it's not the best job. I want to practice before embarking on a self build.
I've read a few tutorials on how to, but it's never specific on paint choice. Ideally id like a hard glossy finish.

Ratrod

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2011, 12:30:45 PM »
I use paint from the automotive industry.

The key to a deep shinig finish is several coats of clearcoat, wet sand till the orange peel is gone and polish to a shine using increasingly thinner polishing compounds ending wit a hard wax.

Remember to sand the primer and sand the color coat.
BKP user since 2004: early 7K Blackguard 50

WezV

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2011, 12:59:30 PM »
do you own/can borrow/are willing to buy spray equipment or are you hoping to do it with cans?

Modular1

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2011, 10:58:26 PM »
I was thinking cans but I think if I go ahead with it I'm gonna get someone who knows what the hell they are doing to do it. I've had a quote of £175 to do a pro job on it. Sounds reasonable to me.

ToneMonkey

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2011, 04:58:41 PM »
May as well have abash yourself first, you can always sand it off again.

I'm not sure how it works with auto paints, but on stained wood, I've seen some excellent results with Rustins Brush on stuff for the finish.

Although I once painted a strat with hammerite, so don't feel like you should listen to me  :lol:
Advice worth what you just paid for it.

Oroficus

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2011, 04:58:20 PM »
Quote
I use paint from the automotive industry.

The key to a deep shinig finish is several coats of clearcoat, wet sand till the orange peel is gone and polish to a shine using increasingly thinner polishing compounds ending wit a hard wax.

Remember to sand the primer and sand the color coat.
By Mr Ratrod on June 11, 2011. (I still don't know how to use the quote system properly what a dumb arse I am).



You can lay on the clearcoat, 4 to 6 coats is considered the standard. Allow a 3 hour minimum drying time between coats, and spray no more than 3 coats a day. To avoid breaking into any colour coats, don't sand until after a 2 or 3 coat buildup. Even then wet-sand lightly. Use water or white spirits, and sand with 400-grit wet-n-dry paper, drying off the finish with a clean, soft rag as you go.
Whether you sand between every coat is up to you-some do, some don't-experiment.
Don't sand on sharp edges, unsanded, they'll buildup the extra lacquer needed to rub out nicely with the final finish.


Clearcoat from aerosol cans builds up slower than from sprayguns.
For sprayguns a 50-50 mix (a ratio of 1:1) of thinner to lacquer to spray on smoothly. In humid conditions, a dash of
retarder (can be got from most good art shops for about a fiver) should be added to the lacquer to minimize blushing
(that cr@p white haze caused by trapped moisture).


When the final coat of lacquer clearcoat has dried at least a week (a month is better), wet-sand to a dull satin finish
 prior to rubbing out.
A felt-faced block makes a good backer for the sandpaper. Use 3M 600-, 1000-, or 1200-grit wet-n-dry paper.
Immerse paper in clean water overnight before using. Rinse the paper often in clean water to wash away any clogging particles.

Rubbing out, hand rub with a soft clean rag and (I use Mequiar's Mirror Glaze #4). Rub with the grain in a circular motion. Fold the loose corners of the rag into your palm and use lots of elbow grease.
When you've got a good even shine, switch to Mirror Glaze #7 on a new rag, repeat with all that elbow grease and your done.


P.S. No matter how hard you try, some problems will befall you on your first jobs.
That means you can have lots of fun sorting them out.  :D

I only wandered onto this thread because I'm thinking of revamping my Tele, so I thought I'd have a nosei.

Now all I've mentioned here is how to finish a paint job off.
I have not gone into any great deal about wood preparation, applying colour coats ect. Maybe another time for I only meant to spend a little time at the computer. Not to end up writing a f--kin novel.  :lol:
« Last Edit: June 25, 2011, 05:12:31 PM by Oroficus »

Oroficus

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2011, 08:46:31 PM »
I was thinking cans but I think if I go ahead with it I'm gonna get someone who knows what the hell they are doing to do it. I've had a quote of £175 to do a pro job on it. Sounds reasonable to me.


B@llox do it yourself, I'll put some more posts in with all the info you need.
Just can't be @rsed at the moment, I'm pissed.   :D :drink:

Oroficus

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2011, 02:06:42 AM »
One our members has asked me: Are their any Brands I would recommend. Good point it never occurred to me to mention Brands.

The clear lacquer I use is a Manchester guitar tech brand. Can be got in clear or colourd, from:
www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk    [ You can also get sanding sealer from there as well ].

You want to get Nitrocellulose lacquer NOT Acrylic.


I use woodstains for colour coats, but these stains are specifically designed for guitars they are a pre-mix alcohol-type NGR  ( non grain raising ) stain. The brand name is Solar-Lux and can be got from:
www.shellac.net
When you get on the site enter Solar-Lux into the sites search engine top left, this will take you to a list page click onto no 1: The first on the list and you will be taken onto the sites Solar-Lux page. There you will have a price list and all the different tones of colours regarding stains.
If you decide to buy make sure to buy some reducer as well NOT retarder.  [ I know that I have mentioned retarder but that was for a total different application ].
It's an American site so expect to wait around 2 and a half weeks for your stuff to arrive.

Now that a wrap from me on this one for tonight. But I think that means I have to finish this novel of War & Peace off now. SH1T  :lol:


Oroficus

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Re: Guitar paint
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2011, 04:42:29 AM »
Hopefully I should be able to get this down in one session.
If there's anyone out there who is going to give all this a go, I would suggest that you practice a complete finish on a small block of wood first, rather than your guitar.

Just a bit about WOOD PREPARATION: Once you get the original finish off, I usually start with 120 grit paper progress to 150 or 180 grit then give the wood a final sand down using a 220 grit.
I personally would not sand down any finer than the 220, you see there is a problem that can develop if you sand down too fine, you can make the wood surface so smooth that Lacquer has trouble adhering to the woods surface.

Sanding tip: Raise the grain by lightly dampening the wood surface (don't soak it, though). Use a clean rag that's been soaked in water and well squeezed out.
When the wood drys the wood fibers will be raised or firred up, making it easier for sandpaper to cut them off.
Dampen the wood between every sanding to get a really smooth surface.
Make sure to blow off or vac any excess dust away first.

On flat surfaces use a block with your sand paper to spread out sanding pressure, thus avoiding creating hollows in the wood from the roundness of your fingers. And sand with the direction of the grain.

After the final sand down and blow off you can if you want to is give the wood a final wipe down with a rag that's been dampened with lighter fuel, this is just to wipe away any invisible sweat or oils left by handling.

Just don't set yourself's on fire :D 

Wood preparation is the most important step of finishing, since the finish can only be as good as the wood underneath.  So take your time and make sure it's right.



Next post will be colour coats  :note:










« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 05:21:14 AM by Oroficus »