Traces with a Sharpie are as good as you are, really. Let it cure up for an hour or so(it's dry instantly, but not ideal) and then etch with a heated solution. I have a ceramic plate with a high lip on it and I'll put a bit of water in it and stick it in the microwave for 30-45 secs. At that point, I'll put my etching container in the heat bath. Agitate for about a minute and it's done. Etching with a cold solution will take much much longer. I do it on the stove as it's a glass top and ventilation is already there.
No printer sucks. What you can do is get your components together and arrange them on a piece of paper, sticking the legs through. Draw your traces around them, pull the components and place that paper over your copper clad(flip it :)) and poke each hole with the Sharpie. Now you're free to use a straight edge to connect the dots. Try to get a fine and an ultra fine sharpie. Ultra fine for traces, fine for pads.
edit: If you wanna get fancy and have your components line up, use graph paper.