3 Way Toggle grounding and hot wire placement

[johnson]

I want the hottest connection from the C-bomb in the bridge. I would assume braided wire directly to the vol pot, toggle, and jack the most conductive but I want the option to split.

I want to split the coils in the Mule for the neck with a mini on/off/on switch. So it would be wired to  the mini switch, to the vol, and to the toggle for the most conductivity.

With that set up I would need two volume pots for each Hum. I would rather just have the one with the mini switch and the 3-way.

The only way to use one potentiometer for two humbuckers is to go directly to the toggle from the mini switch correct?

I cannot connect two Humbucker hots directly to the same potentiometer can I?

Are there cascading effects or loss in signal where it shows to wire both Humbuckers to the toggle and then to the vol pot instead of going straight to the vol pot and would this be my best option?

[fdesalvo]

Just run one volume.   Take your humbucker hots to the appropriate switch lug, then take the output of the toggle and run it to the volume pot.  Volume pot goes to the output jack.

Use a push-pull pot for volume and you can split both buckers simultaneously and not have to drill a hole in the body.  Mules don't split too well, FWIW.

[johnson]

"Mules don't split too well, FWIW."
 
Thats what i heard yesterday. Looking at a calibrated set of warpigs (ceramic) due the woods im using.

Tempered pine body (no chambering). Oregon Myrtle top, 5 piece Indian rosewood neck with purple heart fillets w/ an Indian rose wood  fret board ( African black wood headstock veneer)

I was going to use a vol push/push but i wanted to use a 550k and i do hear a difference in the 500k and the 550k with my Jugg to my ears. It gives you that tad bit more response IMO.

I have a Laney Ironheart studio 15w so the pigs should push it pretty hard.

I am going to bring the hots to the mini, then to the toggle, than to the vol pot. with the pigs impedance I'm sure there will be plenty of conductivity.

What do you think?

[fdesalvo]

I see what you mean.

Twist the green/white and black/bare wires together as two pairs.  Reds go to your 3 way toggle lugs.  Green/Whites go to your coil split switch.  Run a ground from the opposite side of that switch to ground along with the black/bare pair.  Output of the toggle goes to right vol pot log.  Center pot lug goes to output jack's tip.  Left pot lug goes to  ground.  Use shielded cable for this.

I like to make a ground bus that connects the volume pot to the 3-way toggle's ground lug.  I take some thin gauge, solid core wire and fold it in half.  One side goes into my drill chuck, the other I hold with pliers.  Spin at slow RPM until the wire is tightly twisted.  Stop when the whole wire starts to buckle and the braids stop tightening against on another.  Snip off the ends and pass one through the volume pot's ground lug onto it's casing.  Pass the other one through the pickup selector's ground lug.  You may have to bend a few 90* angles in it.

Now, solder the pot lug and then the pot casing.  You can bend the wire against the casing and not worry about it moving prior.  Next solder at the toggle end.  Make sure it is routed appropriately.  Now, use this ground bus to tie all of your remaining grounds together - each one gets soldered onto it.  Here's the idea.

[johnson]

Nice man thank you!

[nikopapp]

fdesalvo, this looks like exactly what I need.
What is that cap/resistor in there, and what is it for?

[fdesalvo]

Nice man thank you!

YW, my man.

fdesalvo, this looks like exactly what I need.
What is that cap/resistor in there, and what is it for?

That's a 490K resistor.  It's used so the single coil at the neck will "see" the 500K volume pot as a 250K pot.