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Author Topic: Changing machineheads  (Read 5786 times)

Antag

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Changing machineheads
« on: August 23, 2006, 09:00:37 AM »
Much as I love my Les Paul, I have horrendous tuning & string breakage problems with it :(

Going to get the nut changed & try another bridge, however I'm also sorely tempted to swap out the machineheads.  I've had the occasional big slip that can't have been just the nut grabbing & have noticed when I restring it that a couple of the tuners feel a lot tighter to turn than the rest.

Has anyone here replaced Gibson "deluxe" heads with Grovers? (the ones with the large kidney shaped buttons) Does the single screw on Grovers line up with either of the Gibson ones?

I'm not too worried about drilling a new hole, just curious about how scabby the back of the headstock will look when I've finished... :)
BKPs: HD, MM, NB, PK, CS, Ab (b&n); Am (b only); VHII, Tril (n only); IT, Slow, Sult (m&n)

Twinfan

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2006, 11:25:38 AM »
In my opinion, if it's a fairly new Les Paul the machineheads won't be at fault.  Build quality went down on 70s Gibsons as they cut costs and machineheads were very cheap - they broke a lot.  On Gibsons from the 80s onwards they'll be good quality.  I would do the following:

1)  Check you're stringing the guitar properly so that the string is clamped at the machinehead nice and tight.

2)  Always stretch the strings when you fit them.  This gives better tuning stability, quicker.

3)  Have the guitar professionally setup and mention your problems.  They should check the nut slots and lubricate it if necessary, and check the bridge saddles for rough spots.

String breakage can be caused by several things, so look where the string is breaking.  Is it at the bridge?  Is it rubbing on a pickup?  How old are the strings?  Are you using a very light gauge and playing very heavily?  If so, consider using heavier strings.

Hope that helps!

Ratrod

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2006, 11:26:27 AM »
There shouldn't be any problem with the holes but I'm not shure if the screws will line up. Anyway, it's a big improvement for your tuning stability.

If you're gonna change the tuners anyway, go for the locking ones.
BKP user since 2004: early 7K Blackguard 50

Antag

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2006, 02:10:59 PM »
Quote from: Twinfan
In my opinion, if it's a fairly new Les Paul the machineheads won't be at fault.


It's a new (well not brand new, but only a few years old) Les Paul.  Normally I'd agree with you (my Flying V has the same Gibson Deluxe tuners with no problems) but it bothers me that some of the machineheads are a lot tighter to turn (even without a string on) than the others.

Most of the tuning problems are probably the nut (it gets a bit better if I apply a liberal dose of soft lead pencil or Big Bends Nut Sauce to the slots) but occasionally I have a huge slip where it goes way flat.  Now I won't say I never make mistakes when stringing :) but I've been restringing my own guitars for nearly 20 years & don't have this problem on any others.  The tuning doesn't get any better after stretching (in other words, it never "settles down").

The string breakage is at the bridge.  Nothing unusual there, apart from that it's the strings I don't normally break :lol:  It's strung with 10-52s & yes I play hard (esp since I fitted the Nailbomb bridge :twisted: it's a riff monster now) but I rarely break the top two strings on other guitars.  I suspect that it's a sharp edge on the bridge & have a spare tune-o-matic bridge anyway so I'll fit that.
BKPs: HD, MM, NB, PK, CS, Ab (b&n); Am (b only); VHII, Tril (n only); IT, Slow, Sult (m&n)

Twinfan

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2006, 03:07:59 PM »
Some machineheads will be tighter than others due to wear/tear and differences in tolerances.  If it's really noticeable, and one of the loose ones is the string that goes very flat, then there may be a problem.  I'd get them checked out before shelling out on a new set though as they aren't cheap!

WezV

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2006, 03:17:51 PM »
If the strings are breaking at the bridge thats where your main problem is.  I know you said you have a replacement anyway but you can easily sort this with a little bit of 600grit sandpaper and a few minutes work.  Its quite common for these to need a little bit of smoothing out.

The tuners are an issue but i dont think they are the thing snapping the string.

ToneMonkey

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2006, 03:25:29 PM »
If you decide to change the hardware, I've got a full gold set of Gotoh that I need to change for some chrome ones.  It will have all you need and more (Tuners, Stop Tail Piece, TOM Bridge, 4 Gold Knobs, Gold Jack Plate and Gold Neck Plate, Strap Buttons and all screws, posts etc needed).

Not sure if the tuners will be a direct replacement though.

Unfortunately, I bought these for a previous project.  However, I now need to put them on a grey guitar and the look dodgy on that colour so they need to be changed.  I'll knock a few quid off the retail price if you need them.
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HTH AMPS

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2006, 06:55:13 PM »
I'm pretty sure that Grovers will require the holes to be reamed out if you've got 'tulip' tuners on there now.

Don't be temped to drill the headstock to widen the holes, you WILL wreck the thing.  Take it to a luthier!!!

 :twisted:

PhilKing

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Changing machineheads
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2006, 08:10:27 PM »
Grovers need a 10mm hole, Kluson (Gibson) deluxe need 9mm so you will need to have the hole enlarged.  You need either a reamer (he best method), or a cone shaped stone (Dremel make one).  Don't do it if you don't have either of these.  The headstock is easy to split.
So many pickups, so little time