Locking tuners... worth it? + which ones?

[sambo]

cheers steve ill get myself some of that...

and hunter- awesome! theyre perfect cheers..  :D

and headtheball- those steinbergers look reallly cool... as do the PW's...

[Sifu Ben]

Caffeine Junkie, a regular Tonepros bridge costs £50-£65 (and about the same again for the tailpiece). I've not seen the Graphtech one available in this country yet, but graphtech TOM saddles cost £15-£20, so I guess you can infer a likely figure. They fit into the existing threads, so you can fit them yourself with no skill whatsoever.

[CaffeineJunkie]

aaah thank you very much, i may well be getting them at some point

cheers

[FELINEGUITARS]

Caffeine Junkie, a regular Tonepros bridge costs £50-£65 (and about the same again for the tailpiece). I've not seen the Graphtech one available in this country yet, but graphtech TOM saddles cost £15-£20, so I guess you can infer a likely figure. They fit into the existing threads, so you can fit them yourself with no skill whatsoever.

the saddle sets are £25 but great
they do require a bit of patience to fit - if you could cope with an airfix kit you'd be fine to do it

There are different ones depending upon which tunamatic you have

[_tom_]

I have a set of Graphtech saddles and they are pretty good, I didnt really notice much difference in tone but they definately work for string breakages, mind you I still break strings on em but not as frequently as I did with stock Epi saddles.

[FELINEGUITARS]

Some Epi bridges need a bit of attention as they can get burrs that can cut into a string

The graph tech saddles are great for that

[Jp.]

woooooooooooooah!


cheers guys, thanks for all the info, its ALL really helpful...

ok so... from the beginning:

bainzy: you mentioned how the strings are wrapped round the pegs makes a difference... is there a particular method you use then? and ill look into the nut e.t.c. thanks for the heads up.

j.t- cheers- i probably will be gigging regularly and the fact that it makes re-stringing really easy is a good thing to know.

froglord: i used to stretch them by winding the pegs on (i.e. tuning them really high before tuning them properly)... but have recently found out its better to just physically pull/stretch them... ??? and i used to leave strings on for yonks but have started changing more regularly.  cheers.

steve- what do you use to lubricate the bridge + nut?

ben- cheers for all the info... ive seen the roller saddles bridge around... youd recommend them then? and i thought about an Earvana ages ago but couldnt find anywhere to get one from i dont think...

oh and nick- what the hell is that pencil lead  trick thing...?


cheeeers guys.

what no mention for me... fine next time I'll kepp my info to myself Mr Chadwick.  :?  :lol:

[sambo]

:o  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

lol i first of all put j.p.... then scrolled down to check... and saw J.t.... and then didnt realise that you posted as well lol... woops..

but your info was of course helpful just so you know... with the very quick string changes and great for gigging e.t.c. thanks  :D

[Jp.]

ha... no problem.

BTW havent tried the PW tuners but all the other PW gear I have is great.

My one recomendation would be to try and geta brand that has larger "locking nuts" on the back of the tuner.

I have the schaller type and the locking nut is very thin and sometimes makes it hard to get a grip on them. Its a small thin g but can be annoying.

Anyways back to the business of fatherdom [drifts off in semi sleep walk]

[fps_dean]

I've had sperzels... and still do now... you gotta tighten them good or they slip, but if you tighten them good they also break.... go figure.

[Dakine]

I've had sperzels... and still do now... you gotta tighten them good or they slip, but if you tighten them good they also break.... go figure.

Never had this issue with Sperzels on 4 guitars have owned, hmmm.

[fps_dean]

I've had sperzels... and still do now... you gotta tighten them good or they slip, but if you tighten them good they also break.... go figure.

Never had this issue with Sperzels on 4 guitars have owned, hmmm.

I haven't yet had any with the Carvin, but I no longer use 11s+.  But even after I stopped using 13-58s on the G&L before I sold it, they'd always break with 11s.

[Dakine]

I've had sperzels... and still do now... you gotta tighten them good or they slip, but if you tighten them good they also break.... go figure.

Never had this issue with Sperzels on 4 guitars have owned, hmmm.

I haven't yet had any with the Carvin, but I no longer use 11s+.  But even after I stopped using 13-58s on the G&L before I sold it, they'd always break with 11s.

Did you check the internals (obviously by sight) to look for burrs/bad edges? Thats if they broke at nut end (as I deduce you are implying). Sounds like a sharp edge to me.

[fps_dean]

I've had sperzels... and still do now... you gotta tighten them good or they slip, but if you tighten them good they also break.... go figure.

Never had this issue with Sperzels on 4 guitars have owned, hmmm.

I haven't yet had any with the Carvin, but I no longer use 11s+.  But even after I stopped using 13-58s on the G&L before I sold it, they'd always break with 11s.

Did you check the internals (obviously by sight) to look for burrs/bad edges? Thats if they broke at nut end (as I deduce you are implying). Sounds like a sharp edge to me.

I don't think any broke at the nut end... the first couple to break may have I don't really remember it was so long ago... most of them broke at the string end.

[Dakine]

hmmm, curious Mr.Bond.