Author Topic: converting trems (Read 9765 times)

CaffeineJunkie · « **on:** September 19, 2006, 05:11:03 PM »

hey,

i'm looking at converting my trem into a floating trem

(i heard that you can unscrew something and it will then go up and down)

but i don't know what to adjust, and i don't want to just start unscrewing stuff to see what it does, so has anybody done this before??

:D

Cheers

CJ

fps_dean · « **Reply #1 on:** September 19, 2006, 08:20:30 PM »

Is it a floyd? Or are we talking about a standard Fender strat trem here?

CaffeineJunkie · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2006, 09:34:56 PM »

standard vintage trem (on an OLP MM-1), sorry, i thought that but forgot to type it

Dakine · « **Reply #3 on:** September 19, 2006, 10:20:32 PM »

ok, confoosed.
I have a Petrucci MM with vintage trem and Had an Axis same.
What are you trying to do exactly? Both my trems go up and down.
If yours is like a floyd with little recess thats different. Then again dunno what OLP use exactly.

fps_dean · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2006, 10:53:29 PM »

What you're going to have to do is loosen the screws that screw the trem claw in a little bit.

With many of the vintage style trems, if the screws that hold the trem on are screwed in all the way, it will lock the bridge in place against the body and almost be like a fixed bridge so you may have to loosen them..... however if you can dive you should be fine there although it may be possible that if the bridge is screwed down too tight too low it will be hard to move it and therefore make your return very poor.

Dakine · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2006, 11:18:48 PM »

on MM they are fully recessed so (less OLP do it diff.)

Dakine · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2006, 11:28:15 PM »

Ah, ok, just had look at one.
Looks like there is a plate behind whole trem system. Cannot see close-up pic but does look like you are sh*t outta luck. The pic looks like the plate will negate reward travel of the trem block, no recess.
Any more info. may be helpfull though.

CaffeineJunkie · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2006, 12:34:54 AM »

OK, so i've established that the screws in the 1st picture (the one's with the red arrows pointing at) are probably the one's to loosen slightly

as for the rest, i'm completely lost, so i've taken pictures of the front and back of the trem, as-Dakine-i have no idea what you are talking about when you said:

Quote from: Dakine

pic looks like the plate will negate reward travel of the trem block, no recess

this may be because you are looking at the floyd rose version, i don't know, i don't own any FR equipped guitars, but i hope that the pics will help

Cheers

CJ

:D

CaffeineJunkie · « **Reply #8 on:** September 20, 2006, 12:45:17 AM »

k, forgot the pics

fps_dean · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:55:40 AM »

Looks like you'll be fine to unscrew the claw screws a bit to get some room to pull up on. Be warned that doing this you will be prone to having a poor trem return, and that when you do, a little turn actually goes quite a long way after you tune....

FELINEGUITARS · « **Reply #10 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:15:16 AM »

Hmm
Depending upon what gauge of string you are using I would suggest:
Pulling out the middle spring and angle the two remaining springs in towrds the centre (where the red arrows are on the diagram) and hook them on hooks 2 and 4.
Then retune, and see how high the bridge sits
If too high , then tighten the two screws on the rear
if still too low, then loosen the two screws

The six screws on te plate on the fronmt holding it to the body must NOT be tightened down or the bridge will never be able to pivot (worth checking)
It must allow just enough room for movement

CaffeineJunkie · « **Reply #11 on:** September 20, 2006, 02:10:36 PM »

ok, so i've had a go at what was suggested - i've removed the centre spring and moved the other two to the middle of the 'claw'

i have also loosened the screws in the back of the guitar slightly

however, this doesn't seem to have made any difference, apart from making the trem easier to use (thanks :D)

as you can see in the picture below, the trem is still sitting directly on the top of the guitar, therefore resulting in no room to move for when i want to raise the pitch using the trem

is it just that i haven't unscrewed the back enough, i didn't want to remove them too much, as i doubt i would be able to get it all back together again if they came out, and i don't know how long the screws are

any suggestions??

Cheers

CJ

CaffeineJunkie · « **Reply #12 on:** September 20, 2006, 02:11:52 PM »

and, again, i have forgotten to attach the picture....

Dakine · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2006, 06:56:29 PM »

as I said, think you r sh*t outta luck with that kinda trem, it is NOT recessed so has very limited travel rearwards. Looks like one of the things OLP cheaped out on. The 'floyd' model would do it but that one I cannot see how will (as believe you want it to). The MusicMan Vintage trem is recessed into the body, that 'plate' is creating movement v.difficult.
Sorry dude.
Am sure you could 'frankentrem' it but would be fugly am sure.

PhilKing · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2006, 07:16:46 PM »

The 2 screws into the body are about 6cm long, so you won't take them too far by accident - the springs will fall off first!!!
What guage strings do you use, and do you have the guitar tuned to pitch while you are doing this. It will not tilt forwards without string tension to pull it.

2 springs should really let it come forwards unless you are using really light strings detuned.