Author Topic: Push/Pull pot diameter? (Read 4506 times)

psy · « **on:** June 19, 2007, 08:23:25 AM »

I got my Cold Sweat bridge & a 500k push/pull pot to go with it yesterday. I wired it all up... And when I got to push it through the body of the guitar I discover that the threaded part of the pot as a bigger diameter than the one I took out. Doh! Does this mean that my old pots aren't standard size or the the new one isn't?

Also... I've wired it up for coil tap as per the schematic provided. Am I right in thinking that the coil is tapped in the down position & full humbucking in the up position when following this schematic? If so how can I swap it around so in the down position it's in standard humbucking mode?

Cheers,

Simon

WezV · « **Reply #1 on:** June 19, 2007, 08:31:46 AM »

Pots come in many shapes and sizes. My guess is it is only a little bigger than the one you took out so just needs reaming to size.

Cheap mans reamer = a pencil with sandpaper around it.

Much less likely to damage your finish than drilling the hole bigger would do

psy · « **Reply #2 on:** June 19, 2007, 08:37:22 AM »

Ahhh, thanks for the pencil tip. I was think of using sandpaper, just hadn't thought of how to keep it solid. Cheers mate.

hunter · « **Reply #3 on:** June 19, 2007, 09:18:34 AM »

Usually factory pots in "cheaper" guitars have a smaller diameter than CTS or push/pull versions.

I always drill a hole. By accident I even had the drill hammer still activated last time ehem :oops:

I use the schematics on www.guitarelectronics.com, there it's tapped in upper position which for me makes more sense. Otherwise just swap the wires in vertical direction (the one that's closer to the top of the pot to pin 2, the one that's closer to the bottom to pin 1, both on the left and the right sides. Aehrm, does that somehow sound logical?

psy · « **Reply #4 on:** June 19, 2007, 09:46:00 AM »

Yeah, I think that makes sense. The green & white that I've soldered to the bottom pin I need to swap with the red I've soldered to the middle pin. Cool

c0bblers · « **Reply #5 on:** June 19, 2007, 11:02:13 AM »

Quote from: psy

Yeah, I think that makes sense. The green & white that I've soldered to the bottom pin I need to swap with the red I've soldered to the middle pin. Cool

Hmm assuming it's a normal switch, the middle terminals will be the common so switching the middle and bottom connections around wont make any difference. If you want to switch it around I'd think you'd move the bottom connection to the top....to explain it with very dodgy diagrams:

In one state the middle and top are connected

Code: [Select]


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In the other state the middle and bottom are connected

Code: [Select]


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Thus swapping the middle and bottom wont make any difference.

psy · « **Reply #6 on:** June 19, 2007, 01:27:06 PM »

I see what you're saying there. I assume it's just a normal push/pull 500k pot. It's the ones BKP's sell.

So... let me get this right... If the pot is in the 'in' postition it should actiavte the middel & bottom pins? If it's in the 'pull' postition it should then activate the top & middle pins?

So with the green & white wires going to the bottom & the red to the middle it should be full humbucking 'in'. Then when 'pulled' it should be coil tapped because it's just using the red wire on the middle & the empty pin on the top.

I may have wire it right following the diagram supplied with the pickup. I didn't get finished till late last night, so it could have just been my ears playing tricks on me.

FELINEGUITARS · « **Reply #7 on:** June 19, 2007, 02:28:52 PM »

Some makes of push pull connect the upper 2 rows of tags when you pull up - some others connect the lower two rows

i find that you always need to check- unless you are getting them from a supplier where you know which way round they go