Author Topic: Buzzy frets (Read 5846 times)

badgermark · « **on:** September 24, 2007, 10:16:36 PM »

Rightyo, I have some fret buzz and I don't know why. The guitar is a MIM strat, apparently set up by a good quality tech, really low action. But along the G and to a lesser extent B strings on the 7th, 8th and 9th frets it buzzes like a beeatch.

I have tried raising the string height to no avail, dunno what else could cause this, truss rod maybe?

Seems to have appeared today, fine earlier, but played unplugged tonight and the dreaded buzz appeared. Thinking of a string change anyway, so keep it simple folks.

Oh and I'll cry if it needs fret work done for it.

Philly Q · « **Reply #1 on:** September 25, 2007, 12:10:24 AM »

Is it definitely fret buzz, or is it more of a loud, hollow rattling? If it's the latter, it could be that there's no tension on the truss rod. Try tapping on the back of the neck with your knuckles to see if you can hear the rod rattling.

Assuming it's fret buzz, there may be no relief in the neck. Try putting a capo (or an elastic band

) at the first fret, hold a string down at around the 15th-17th fret or so, then look to see if the string is clear of the frets in the middle of the neck.

If there's a tiny gap, that's neck relief. If there's no gap at all, the neck is perfectly straight or there may even be a bit of a back-bow. Some people like a perfectly straight neck, others prefer a bit of relief to allow room for the greater movement of the strings in the middle of the neck.

Slackening the trussrod slightly (no more than a quarter-turn anti-clockwise) will let the string tension pull the neck up a little, creating some relief. But be very careful!

badgermark · « **Reply #2 on:** September 25, 2007, 10:01:21 AM »

Definitely is from the frets. I shall bust out the trusty capo and have a footer around. Neck DOES look pretty straight as well as the low as possible action. Intriguing.

WezV · « **Reply #3 on:** September 25, 2007, 10:32:37 AM »

Quote from: badgermark

Neck DOES look pretty straight as well as the low as possible action. Intriguing.

generally a little buzzing is to be expected with a low action - buzzes come from so many places though its hard to diagnose over the net... Philly Q's suggestions are a good start

badgermark · « **Reply #4 on:** September 25, 2007, 12:10:30 PM »

I had a fanny around with it this morning, and I've decided I can live with it.

Buzzes on the fret for sure, can't seem to adjust the truss rod though, don't have a doo-thingy that fits. Meh it's alright. Thanks for the help peeps. I'll set it up properly when I change the strings, I don't care too much about a super low action anyway.

Henk · « **Reply #5 on:** October 05, 2007, 01:35:02 PM »

OK, im late obviously but anyway.

If its only 1 or maybe 2 strings that buzz, and the buzz is in the top half of the neck its probably the slot in the nut that runs to deep. If you dont put some graphite in the slots once in a while they will wear pretty fast, ESPECIALLY the G string is sensitive to wear. As an option you can replace the nuts with a graphite nut but the problem remains the same. Plastic fantastic e.....

If the buzz is in the bottom half of the neck, or the bridge is set too low or sometimes even the saddles get worn too much.

I give the necks on my guitar just a tiny bit of relieve, its also better for the neck since there is less tension on it.

WezV · « **Reply #6 on:** October 05, 2007, 02:26:45 PM »

i have to disagree with the 'plastic fantastic' part, the first thing i recommend to anyone when buying a guitar is to ditch the palstic nut, if you replace it with something harder you will get a clearer tone!

The first thing i do with a new nut is to drop it on the side in my kitchen - the noise instantly tells you if its suitable or not. most plastics will thud as it lands . . . that is not the sort of material i want at such a critical area in the strings travel. It needs to be a material that tranfers sound rathar than absorbs it

I have tried many different varieties but am now mostly using bone - when well cut it works perfectly. I also like graphtech and tusq as man made alternative to bone

Henk · « **Reply #7 on:** October 05, 2007, 03:07:22 PM »

Quote from: WezV

i have to disagree with the 'plastic fantastic' part

I think you got that the wrong way, anyway there are plenty of options to the plastic nuts, if you want to replace on take it out with extreme care. Many guitar models have finish on the sides of the nuts and removing the nut carelessly would destroy the finish, you'd better let someone experienced handle that in that case.

WezV · « **Reply #8 on:** October 05, 2007, 03:35:50 PM »

i consider myself experienced enough to change a nut - and so do all the people that let me do it on there guitars. Beleive me, i would nto mention the issue if i hadnt had the experience to talk about it

I find plastic nuts to be tone suckers. i am not saying man made materials like delrin, tusq or graphtech are bad, i am saying the cheap plastic nuts that come on lots of cheaper guitars are awful because the plastic is simply too soft to give a good transfer of the strings vibration.

I have used all of them and finally have settled on bone because i feel it gives the clearest tone - it also stinks when cutting it but i am getting over that!!

FELINEGUITARS · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2007, 03:43:44 PM »

I always recommend changing strings first when a problem like this creeps in
Amazing how often the problem disappears.....

badgermark · « **Reply #10 on:** October 17, 2007, 01:45:43 PM »

My strat still buzzes like a bitch. Very noticeable on the middle frets (5 to 9ish) and still rattles around the others. Tis a really hollow rattle, sounds awful and is very distracting, even appears through the amp a bit.

My neck is pretty straight, tried loosening the truss rod but can't seem to make any difference. Tapping the back of the neck doesn't give a rattle. I'm planning on raising the (already very low) action, anything else I can do to fix this without resorting to a tech?

Oh and what can I use to adjust a Standard Strat's truss rod? The manual suggests an allen key, of which I don't have one that fits, or a phillips screwdriver, again none of mine seem to make much difference.

Elliot · « **Reply #11 on:** October 17, 2007, 02:30:55 PM »

With the exception of Jon (who serviced my geetar last time) I find techs often have a habit of setting things up too low-

I suppose its part of what customers seem to want ('very low action' always seems go hand in hand with 'super high gain' in guitar macho talk) but Fender strats are not custom built guitars and are well known for rattles. You have to find the point where its acceptable to you - normally only a few extra turns of the allen key.

badgermark · « **Reply #12 on:** October 17, 2007, 02:37:45 PM »

Yeah I'm not that fussed with a super low action, I love smacking chords and the occasional blues-based solo. This is my 10's guitar, my tele is set up with 11s and a medium action and that is no problem for me.

My worry is that I can't seem to adjust the truss rod. I ordered some mother's milks yesterday, so I'm dipping into my overdraft to get them installed properly and get the action/truss sorted.

Will · « **Reply #13 on:** October 17, 2007, 04:00:36 PM »

I think sometimes necks can be slow to have the effects of the truss rod shown. I certainly found that whilst fiddling around anyway, I believe Wez said something along the same lines in one of Indy's threads about a strat?

WezV · « **Reply #14 on:** October 17, 2007, 04:16:31 PM »

sometimes they canbe slow, sometimes they act instantly - they are quite unpredictable.

I would be checking relief, bowed slightly foward is better than perfectly straight. If it was still buzzing with the relief perfect i would be looking at a fretdress - assuming everything else like nut and saddle heights are correct.

Problem is that most guitars have one way truss rods that dont really allow you to bow the neck forward - unless string tension has already done it anyway. Thats why some people suggest adding more tension (thicker strings or tuning higher) to force the neck into a bow. that definately takes longer than a truss rod adjustment. Personally in this case i would be looking at the fretwork if i had excluded action at nut and bridge and any adverse effects of the pickups