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Author Topic: My amp has now died.. TSL 601  (Read 9187 times)

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2010, 05:25:38 PM »
Hey guys got it all sorted.

It was the Bridge rectifier(br102) that caused the fuse to blow as it was shot a quick replacement of that and the fuse and everythings back in fully working order.

And also yes that fuse was actually 6.3amp

thanks for all your help.

Tony

Dmoney

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2010, 05:30:46 PM »
just one fuse?

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #17 on: October 31, 2010, 05:33:25 PM »
yeah it was just the one fuse that had gone F3 on the schematic

jpfamps

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2010, 09:52:28 PM »
The DC heater bridge rec in the TSL601 and TSL401 is a bit on the shandy side, and can also suffer from dry joints. (I had a Bogner Alchemist in last week with exactly the same problem).

Additionally caps filtering the supply in the TSL401 are rated at only 6V!

You need to bear in mind that rectification and filtering with a large capacitor causes very large current pulses to be draw from the filamennt winding.

I've experimented with several methods of generating DC heaters, and to be honest trying to rectify the 6.3 VA winding is daft due to the high currents involved. You are far better running your preamp valves at 12.6 VDC, which will require half the current draw. OK, you will need another winding on your PT, but of a mass producer like Marshall this will be inconsequential.

Peavey us 24VDC to supply the first 2 preamp valves wired in series in some amps. This reduces current requirements even further.

Also if a power valve shorts plate or screen to cathode it is likely that it will also break the cathode heater insulation and impose the HT on the heater supply. If you are using the same heater for the power valves and DC pre-amp heater there is likely to be considerable collateral damage. Thus generating a DC filament supply for the pre-amp valves from another transformer winding makes the most sense all round.

Re the fuse in your amp. Well it did it's job. It saved the amp from any furthere damage, as a short in the fialment supply is unlikely to draw enough current on the tranformer primary (remember it is stepped down from 240V) to blow the mains fuse, so a short could easily burnout the filament winding and ruin the transformer.

Apart from very exacting applications (eg studio gear, v-v-v-v-v-ery high gain amps) I find that referencing the filament supply to around 30VDC and using well-dressed filament wiring renders filament hum innocuous.
« Last Edit: October 31, 2010, 09:54:55 PM by jpfamps »

jpfamps

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2010, 09:58:23 PM »

The BR is only supplying the first 2 preamp valves with filament voltage. I know with usual AC heat a whole 12AX7 draws 300mA. I'm not sure if that changes for DC heat. I think it just about doubles current consumption (correct me if im misinformed).

The total power consumption is increased by a factor of 1.4, although you will now get large current pulses draw by the DC filament filter caps. The larger the cap the worse the problem but the better the smoothing.


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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2010, 09:56:08 PM »
can the OP take one of those fuses out the amp and confirm their rating - no way it could be 6.3A, even the mains fuse is only 2A.



Yes it can!

The 2A is the 240V supply, if it's stepped down to 6.3V then 6A is no problem. The EL34 heaters would add up to 6A for 4 tubes.

there is a 6.3A fuse on each of the EL34s, not one 6.3A fuse for all four - its on the schematic.


Dmoney

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Re: My amp has now died.. TSL 601
« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2010, 10:51:13 PM »
true. seems weird.
I also don't understand how blowing just 1 fuse can kill all the heaters, unless breaking the bridge rectifier can somehow cause that kind of fault too.