Finishing guitar Body with Stain/Dye

[Keven]

Hi Guys,

i'm planning to take on a warmoth tele build project. i'm not a particular expert at finishing but this is a guitar i'd like to keep and achieve a kind of beat up look over time.

is there anything wrong with just dying the wood without any gloss or finish? is there a possible problem with humidity and so on if i don't seal the wood?

thanks!

[Toe-Knee]

Hi Guys,

i'm planning to take on a warmoth tele build project. i'm not a particular expert at finishing but this is a guitar i'd like to keep and achieve a kind of beat up look over time.

is there anything wrong with just dying the wood without any gloss or finish? is there a possible problem with humidity and so on if i don't seal the wood?

thanks!

I tried this in the past against WezV's advice and it ended up really patchy and dull looking without any kind of clear on.

Your case maybe a little different though as this was basswood and it just soaked right in and dried really fast so it was virtually impossible to get a consistent finish.

[Philly Q]

I haven't tried, but I imagine there must be an issue with the colour going really dark where it soaks into the end grain?  I don't know how to avoid that, but maybe it doesn't matter if you ultimately want the guitar to have a beaten-up look.

Maybe some kind of oil (Tru-Oil?) finish would be better than stain/dye?

[Keven]

I was looking at the tru oil option as well. the finish would be something like a yellowed tint dye not unlike maple necks, so nothing really crazy, plus it's on ash.

either that or i bite the bullet and pay for the clear nitro satin finish at warmoth..

[Philly Q]

I have paid for Warmoth to finish a body..... once.  And they did a very good job.

But generally I buy ready-painted showcase items, it's so much cheaper.

[soul7]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning to take on a warmoth tele build project. i'm not a particular expert at finishing but this is a guitar i'd like to keep and achieve a kind of beat up look over time.

is there anything wrong with just dying the wood without any gloss or finish? is there a possible problem with humidity and so on if i don't seal the wood?

thanks!

You definely need to apply a sealer. I use Behlen or Mohawk vinyl sealer in aerosol cans or you can mix shellac and denatured alcohol 50/50 ratio as your sealer. You can then actually add you dye to the sealear and begin shading with that combo as well until you reach you desired color/ tone and then finish off with your topcoat of choice. I prefer nitrocellulose. Good Luck! 8)

[King Zog of Albania]

Abracadiodular servosystems

http://www.wudtone.com/2012/03/23/finishing-diykits/

[WezV]

well i am hearing good things about wudtone despite the odd first post :?

if you just stain wood it will turn dull as soon as dry.   but a coat or to of oil will bring the colour back instantly and seal it all in and you can still flat it off for a non-gloss finish

this is the look you can expect with just stain.  its a not quite done look because its not quite done
http://news.baileyguitars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/6-Cherry-red-stain-is-applied-e1282173240898.jpg
http://crimsonguitars.com/workshop-diary/images/stories/food/150809/14.JPG

just no vibrancy at all, and the stain will rub off and transfer to clothes at this stage

here is a black oil one i am in the process of doing.  wood has been stained black and had a few coats of oil applied

very black


bit of light on it



this is before a more involved process to get the finish exactly as i like it - but it shows the depth of colour/stain well. 

[gwEm]

I have now finished a mahogany strat body, and parts of an oak floor using dye, oil and then wax.

i've found the whole process to be pretty straightforward and i've been happy with the results. the oil is what seems to bring the magic to the finish - depth and lustre.

[Keven]

Y'all will be disappointed but i decided to go with a showcase stock clear gloss finished body and neck. i work at a remote site 28 days and have 14 days off so if i wanted to take the tele with me on the next work shift that was the way to go.

the good part is that it's going to be home tommorow and i'm home on the 28th so once i get there it's all "painting by numbers" as far as assembling the tele but with premium parts and still way much less than what it would cost me for an off the wall U.S.A Ash Tele with BKP's :)

PS: went for the vintage body with the square jack end and the really thin bakelite pickguard.

considering dishing out for a callaham 3 saddle bridge. i have a gotoh 6 saddle bridge coming in from warmoth. is it worth the change?